I had many small, and fuzzy, ideas of what to expect when I embarked on this journey in April. I knew what a cruise was about having been on a few before. I had traveled to Europe before and to some of the South Pacific too. But, really, I had no idea what this trip would mean to me and the growth it would provide.
We visited 25 ports on at least four continents (I don't know which continent the South Pacific Islands are on!!) each one rich with its own flavor and diversity. The number of countries visited was something like...maybe, 18. We had hot and not so hot and way beyond hot. Sunny and cloudy and drizzly. And a couple entire days of what we midwesterners would call "gullywashers"! Many days in the South Pacific were so humid there isn't a hairspray on the market to hold a curl through a minute of one of those days. Other days featured smothering heat so intense a bottle of water had no chance of staying cool between the ship gangway and the tour bus! We cruised Anzac Cove so filled with meaning for the Australians and New Zealanders. We floated through the basic and beautiful Suez Canal, so different from the technology laden Panama Canal. And we had 33 Sea Days, crossed the International Date Line twice, the Equator, went over lines of latitude and longitude regularly and turned our clocks back and forth obliterating our sense of what "normal" bedtime was and when breakfast should be. Not to be forgotten were the two weeks we were in "pirate" country...really! In 2013 real pirates are still a threat...so our ship had 24 hour security in place on all sides looking and watching for their boats and rocket launchers! Our security people examined all fishing boats that got too close.
Twenty-five ports and for me 23 tours or excursions...not counting our three cities in Italy. I missed Moorea in early May as I tried to recover from a virus and spent the day in bed. And of course, as Jeff told me later, I had missed the most beautiful of the South Pacific Islands! And I missed Mumbai, seeing it from the ship as I didn't possess a visa for India. Jeff's Seaman's Papers allowed him to get off the ship and wander and photograph that city.
We had rocky days and nights with high waves and full gale force winds as well as days when the seas were so flat that we could see the ship's shadow on the water and the occasional fish flipping out of the water if we happened to be looking in that right place at the right time. We had happy days of sunshine and meeting new friends, singing songs and telling stories. And we had sad days, when learning of a passenger who was taken off the ship.
Our best days had the highs...drinking wine and sharing stories of excursions gone wrong - or right -, winning at trivia, seeing something unexpected and stunning during a tour. Highs being touched by a piece of music or a beautiful chord at Pop Choir practice. A high seeing a surprisingly good photo during a photo review session in the evening after a tour. There were lows...dealing with cranky passengers, rude and uncaring. The guy who kicked the elevator; the women rating other women in bathing suits. There were missteps and revelations and in the end the wonders of those 75 days and nights seem genuinely unbelievable. We saw places most people see in books and can only dream of seeing in person. We walked in places most people can't imagine walking. We were privileged. We were cared for. We were in extraordinary places with professional people sharing their beloved countries and cities with us...we, visitors from a gifted yet so often under-appreciated country. Sometimes we wondered if asked, if we should fib and claim Canadian citizenship...especially in the Middle East and in Indonesia. (Of course, when asked we always said, "We're Americans".) We were gifted with wonderful treats along the way...coffee, candy, wine, dinners, souvenirs, DVD's, but most specially...friendships.
We bought some souvenirs, but not enough to give to each person in our families and to each friend. Our focus was on what we were experiencing, not on shopping. In the last few days we suddenly realized we hadn't purchased this or that for him or her or them, but of course, by then it was too late!
I ended this trip with 20 Euros and 10 Euro Cents...and about $93.35 in American Dollars! Thats an amazing fact after luggage overages and hundreds spent in mailing "stuff" home. I'm so thankful and have heartfelt gratefulness for the wonders of modern medicine that allowed me to have the series of knee injections prior to leaving in April; they worked and my knees carried me through most days without any problems or discomfort.
We were never fearful or worried about our safety, generally speaking. (I had my three anxiety attacks...one in Kuala Lumpur in the tower with the crowded conditions, one in Rome with the fireworks again in very crowded conditions, and the last on the plane from Florence to Rome when I was given the window seat with two people between me and the aisle. Jeff said to me, rather sternly, "Sorry...deal with it Mom". And I did...I focused on my breathing and grabbed my new book and started to read. Eventually, my breathing evened out. It was only an hour flight, I kept telling myself. I did feel on the edge of flipping out, but I made it through. Those were situations when I was worried but more on an internal very personal level.) Being with tour guides in large groups was strangely comfortable and safety wasn't a concern. Knowing that some of the countries we visited were undergoing unusual strife didn't worry us, but we were aware of the circumstances, for sure. In some cases the guides mentioned the political situations, but in very general terms, especially in Egypt and Turkey. We were specifically notified by the Captain in a personal note about where to go and what to avoid in Istanbul and the decision made to disembark there was left until late the night before we entered the port.
In a few cases we were reminded about clothing requirements and of course we complied. But we were reminded that not everyone understands "covered shoulders" and "covered knees"! And we were uncomfortable and more than a little embarrassed with those members of our groups.
We ticked off about 15 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, which in itself is amazing. We agreed that the Valley of the Kings, Ancient Thebes and the Necropolis was the most incredible to see and also the most difficult - extreme conditions with heat and desert and distance. The Acropolis in Athens was sad to see and understand...Greece is having such severe financial difficulty and the ancient buildings are in great need of restorations with no end to Greece's problems in sight. Even in the Volcanoes National Park in Hawaii, one can see the result of neglect with signage lacking and/or out of date. No country seems able to keep current and able to grasp the impressions left with visitors when neglect is evident and noticeable.
All in all a wonderful life-giving and life-changing series of experiences.
Overall Favorites? Um. The Greek island of Mytilene and all 3 million of its olive trees...and Italy's grace-filled and oh so charming, Assisi.
Favorite excursion? Dubai. The catamaran ride followed by High Tea at the Burj Al Arab Hotel...that sublime to ridiculous thing!
Most Extreme? The Valley of the Kings in Egypt. That was the longest trek to get there and then the hottest and oldest and hardest to grasp the time and place...so old and so beautiful.
Most Unreal with No Desire to Repeat? The Langkawi tour of the monument to Princess Mahsuri who was falsely accused of adultery. A 1950's feel of a 1918 happening with an occasional 2013 twist of techno-stuff in an overcrowded damp and very strange building with old colored fluorescent lighting of the worst kind. Tour ended in a grocery store with the leftover odor of lots of bare feet! Ick.
Most Photogenic? Rome and Assisi and Florence. One day Jeff took over 400 photographs. The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul a close second as 4000 shops gave plenty of photo ops.
Best Feeling of Accomplishment? Two Choir Concerts! And, making the trek to and fro in Petra, Jordan.
Most Beautiful Port? Moorea. Ship docked in a small cove surrounded by palm trees and forested mountains...just breathtaking! Way in is through a small break in the reef.
Small Surprise? Finding a perfume I've been hunting for for about 6-7 years in a small perfumery in Papeete, Tahiti. Should have bought another bottle or two!
Big Surprise? Realizing that Pope Francis really was saying Mass in Saint Peter's when the priests and Eucharistic Ministers filed toward us to give us Communion! That was a real moment!
Best Happening? Meeting Jean and Belinda and Mick, Aussies on the first cruise...friends of Jeff's from many other cruises. Meeting Alan and Alana and Lyn, Mark and Vickie...friends of Jeff's from many other cruises. Having late night wine and chocolate with Alan, Alana and Lyn made every evening special and memorable. Making good friends is an unexpected travel treasure.
Happy Revelation? Tasting real coffee and chocolate in Naples courtesy of Alan and Alana...our last port with the tour guides we'd most like to have on our next adventure. They have been everywhere and share their gifts and knowledge freely with love and generous care.
I know I've missed a good many incidents and happenings, conversations and people to mention, but it's been such a full and rich journey. The one steady constant during the time I was away was JM, J Michael, Jeff. Always patient with a scatter-brained Mom, always a steady, confident traveler, always ready with a challenge or a laugh or a necessary hand to hold. This Mom is so blessed and so grateful for his companionship, his sense of humour, his clever wit, his smart brain, his generosity, his loving nature, and most of all for his patience. He was a charming companion, even when pushed to his edge. Thank you, Jeff, for your grace and care along the way on this journey...every Mom should have a son like you and the opportunity to know you and share your gifts...of voice, of dance, of photo, of wit, of adventure and of joy.
Of course the whole experience would not have been possible without the unquestioning support of a sweet and dear husband...oh, and hardworking too! He paid all my bills along the way! He answered my late night calls about this or that bank account or credit card. I absolutely forgive him for calling my Sea Princess room in the middle of the night. I had no idea if it was really 3 AM or 3 PM either! I thank Jack from the bottom of my heart for making so many of my wishes come true.
If you followed my adventure and mis-adventures I hope in some small way I inspired you to write, or blog, or travel a bit more, perhaps a little outside of your comfort zone. Just remember that life isn't a dress rehearsal. There's always a way to do what at first thought seems can't possibly be done. Thank you for sharing my journey with me...I'd love to hear from you and what you thought.
Email me at: sharonabeech@gmail.com
It's a wrap, people!
Oh...a few more quotes: "A man who has not been in Italy, is always conscious of an inferiority, from his not having seen what is expected a man should see. The grand object of traveling is to see the shores of the Mediterranean." ... Samuel Johnson
"My heart is warm with the friends I make, And better friends I'll not be knowing;
Yet there isn't a train I wouldn't take, No matter where it's going." ...Edna St. Vincent Millay, Travel
"Never a ship sails out of the bay
But carries my heart as a stowaway." ... Roselle Mercier Montgomery, The Stowaway
Wednesday, July 10, 2013
FRIDAY, JULY 5, 2013. FLORENCE, ITALY...OUR LAST DAY OF ADVENTURE!
I just can't believe that our odyssey has come to an end. The time has gone so quickly...it has really flown by. Some thoughts on all of that later.
Today was our last tour...a self tour of the Academia Gallery especially to see "David" and then the Ponte Vecchio Palace Museum. I must confess that I'm weary and all frescoes and mosaics and marble busts are beginning to look alike. Never the less I put one foot in front of the other and off we go, skipping another long line to stand in a shorter queue to get to see David. And it's pretty amazing. There are a huge number of Davids throughout the city from tiny ones for sale for a couple of euros to the fake one in the piazza to the real one which is very beautiful. So we spend our morning looking and oohing over more old rooms, tapestries, frescoes, statues and of course, a few more chapels. I couldn't begin to know the names and recount all the churches and chapels we've seen on this trip! From tiny humble churches in the South Pacific Islands to the largest grandest in Rome and Florence...and everything in between.
After a nap by both of us, Jeff goes off in the afternoon to hunt for more photo ops and I choose to stay behind to pack up and review all our flights and travel plans for tomorrow. I also want time to just think ...and finish a fat book I've been reading since I plucked it out of the Free Bin in the ship's library...a 600 page whopper of a book by Australian author, Di Morrissey called THE VALLEY. I don't have room for it to come home with me and I've since picked up another freebie in our Assisi Hotel...somewhat smaller at about 350 pages. I'd like to start this new one called Cold Shoulder, a murder mystery.
We never get to have dinner out our last night, but Jeff has brought back cannolis for us and we have a little pastry fest while finishing packing and untangling some wacky travel snafus discovered at the last minute.
We set our wake up call for an ungodly time of 3:30 am, our taxi pick up for 4:30 am to meet our prearranged driver at 5:00 am...and none of those is a normal time! We end up on an empty street in the middle of the night! Jeff manages to free a couple of chairs from their overnight chains and we sit and chat in the dim light of a hotel about our adventures. Little did we know what was to come!
Once at the airport we check in for our Alitalia flight from Florence to Rome. Every bag is overweight except mine! This is a first for me. So we jockey stuff around and end up paying 60€ in overage fees and to have two bags saran-wrapped together to make "one" at the suggestion of the Alitalia clerk...the Saran wrapping costs an additional 10€! When we land in Rome, that bag is missing! Jeff is frantic because his three hard drives are in that bag with all of his music, and every photo he's taken not only for this trip, but every trip for the last five years. It's basically his life in that bag. So we wait and wait and wait ...for more than an hour and Jeff struggles to understand how one bag of six submitted all together at the same time can go missing. Finally we pray to Saint Anthony, who has been very overworked by us on this trip. As we stand looking at a totally empty carousel, up pop his pink saran wrapped bags! Well done, St. Anthony!
But wait! Now we have to check in for our flights to the US. And now it's almost 10:30...no breakfast yet and we have to lug the luggage to another terminal for checking in again...JM at Alitalia and me at AerLingus. Those lines are probably more than 100 people long...and we take a minute to say goodbye because he has to go to another part of the terminal. A hug and kiss and off we go...separated by the airlines after 75 days!
We are headed home...or at least I am. If my cell phone still works when I land at JFK in about an hour, I'll find out if Jeff made it. I'll spend the night at a nearby hotel and fly to Raleigh in the morning.
Our final thoughts and blog when the dust clears...
Today was our last tour...a self tour of the Academia Gallery especially to see "David" and then the Ponte Vecchio Palace Museum. I must confess that I'm weary and all frescoes and mosaics and marble busts are beginning to look alike. Never the less I put one foot in front of the other and off we go, skipping another long line to stand in a shorter queue to get to see David. And it's pretty amazing. There are a huge number of Davids throughout the city from tiny ones for sale for a couple of euros to the fake one in the piazza to the real one which is very beautiful. So we spend our morning looking and oohing over more old rooms, tapestries, frescoes, statues and of course, a few more chapels. I couldn't begin to know the names and recount all the churches and chapels we've seen on this trip! From tiny humble churches in the South Pacific Islands to the largest grandest in Rome and Florence...and everything in between.
After a nap by both of us, Jeff goes off in the afternoon to hunt for more photo ops and I choose to stay behind to pack up and review all our flights and travel plans for tomorrow. I also want time to just think ...and finish a fat book I've been reading since I plucked it out of the Free Bin in the ship's library...a 600 page whopper of a book by Australian author, Di Morrissey called THE VALLEY. I don't have room for it to come home with me and I've since picked up another freebie in our Assisi Hotel...somewhat smaller at about 350 pages. I'd like to start this new one called Cold Shoulder, a murder mystery.
We never get to have dinner out our last night, but Jeff has brought back cannolis for us and we have a little pastry fest while finishing packing and untangling some wacky travel snafus discovered at the last minute.
We set our wake up call for an ungodly time of 3:30 am, our taxi pick up for 4:30 am to meet our prearranged driver at 5:00 am...and none of those is a normal time! We end up on an empty street in the middle of the night! Jeff manages to free a couple of chairs from their overnight chains and we sit and chat in the dim light of a hotel about our adventures. Little did we know what was to come!
Once at the airport we check in for our Alitalia flight from Florence to Rome. Every bag is overweight except mine! This is a first for me. So we jockey stuff around and end up paying 60€ in overage fees and to have two bags saran-wrapped together to make "one" at the suggestion of the Alitalia clerk...the Saran wrapping costs an additional 10€! When we land in Rome, that bag is missing! Jeff is frantic because his three hard drives are in that bag with all of his music, and every photo he's taken not only for this trip, but every trip for the last five years. It's basically his life in that bag. So we wait and wait and wait ...for more than an hour and Jeff struggles to understand how one bag of six submitted all together at the same time can go missing. Finally we pray to Saint Anthony, who has been very overworked by us on this trip. As we stand looking at a totally empty carousel, up pop his pink saran wrapped bags! Well done, St. Anthony!
But wait! Now we have to check in for our flights to the US. And now it's almost 10:30...no breakfast yet and we have to lug the luggage to another terminal for checking in again...JM at Alitalia and me at AerLingus. Those lines are probably more than 100 people long...and we take a minute to say goodbye because he has to go to another part of the terminal. A hug and kiss and off we go...separated by the airlines after 75 days!
We are headed home...or at least I am. If my cell phone still works when I land at JFK in about an hour, I'll find out if Jeff made it. I'll spend the night at a nearby hotel and fly to Raleigh in the morning.
Our final thoughts and blog when the dust clears...
Friday, July 5, 2013
THURSDAY, JULY 4, 2013. (Happy Independence Day USA!) FLORENCE, ITALY
Our tour today is just before sundown so our day was more leisurely, a good thing because I am really tired and my knees, back, and feet have just about reached their limit. Walking on the stone pavement all day has taken its toll. That tweak I mentioned some time back is still annoying and causing me to rely more on those naproxen. JM seems not to be bothered by it at all. He just keeps walking. Must be all that dance practice.
Breakfast at this hotel is a hoot. The first day at the super coffee machine that makes any concoction imaginable gave me a cup of frothy milk and one teaspoon of strong coffee...I think it was running low on something. But JM was able to make it work for a good cappuccino. Did you know that cappuccino is only to be had in the morning? Then it's proper to have the espressos and other fancy blends. If you ask for a cappuccino in the afternoon you get funny looks. But this hotel gives a wide variety of goodies to choose from starting at 7:30 until 9:30 each morning.
There are many different yogurts, white and whole wheat breads and a fancy toaster...butter and many jams to choose. Fresh fruit and a very cool orange juice machine. It's huge and gleaming stainless steel just like the toaster and the snazzy coffee maker. You simply put your glass under the spout and hit the "2" button. Two whole oranges roll into the machine which automatically cuts and squeezes the juice out of the oranges and into your glass. YUM! There is also a large bowl of fresh fruit cut and an assortment of pastries. All this is in addition to a nice selection of meats and cheeses, hard boiled eggs, and various cereals. The B&B in Rome provided that nice sandwich as a take along picnic lunch. And the hotel in Assisi gave us hot scrambled eggs as part of breakfast. But I think the Florence breakfast was the most complete and also featured the open terrace and garden which is so beautiful in the early morning.
So the rest of the morning and afternoon we spent wandering the area around the Duomo and managed a bit of shopping. We found a wonderful papery store with hand blocked stationery, including notepaper with very beautiful illuminations, paper replicas of Pinocchio, place cards and bookmarks...it was very hard to choose, but I managed to find a few things. We visited a similar store in Assisi, but that shop was run by the actual artist who did the printing. This shop in Florence has sister stores in New York, Palm Beach and Melbourne.
I left Jeff to take more steps than I was willing to...I saved my steps for our short Piazza Walk and Arno Tour later. We met at a shop near the Effuzi Museum at about 6:00. There were 13 of us including a group of four women from Leeds, UK, on holiday. They were very busy and had booked all kinds of cooking excursions and mountain drives in addition to this River tour. As we walked through the piazza with Ahmed, our guide, a large orchestra of teenaged players was rehearsing in the statuary area. It was fun to hear their bits and pieces of what their performance would be at some future time. Nothing was posted nearby giving details, but we hoped we'd have a chance to hear them. Of course, if JM recognized what was going to be played, he started singing, softly, as Ahmed was talking to us over the music.
We continued our walk down to the river and expected to see two or three nice boats, or one large boat for our outing...but NO. There was one little man with one pretty old looking gondola type flat bottomed wooden boat! He said we didn't need another boat, this one would do just fine...or something like that. At any rate there was no other boat in sight! And so he placed each of us in this dingy little dingy and away we went...no motor, just his long, long pole to push us down the river while Ahmed stood in the bow talking to us as we slipped under the Ponte Vecchio and down under another bridge or two. The whole "cruise" lasted about 40 minutes or less and was probably overpriced, but it was fun and we realized how much we missed sailing and the Sea Princess! We had prosecco to celebrate one of the Brits birthday...
We stopped and had pizza and pasta for dinner...no other options in this town...at a nice little outdoor cafe with no cover and no gratuity. Some restaurants charge one price for sitting outside, a little less for sitting inside, and yet less if you sit at the bar. It's a good idea to ask if there's a difference...for some there is not.
On our way back we encountered the orchestra, playing their program. They were very good and I even recorded one song, and I hope it transfers well for you to see and hear. (Sorry, it didn't.). This was a very nice day! Of course, any day with live music is a very nice day for us!
Breakfast at this hotel is a hoot. The first day at the super coffee machine that makes any concoction imaginable gave me a cup of frothy milk and one teaspoon of strong coffee...I think it was running low on something. But JM was able to make it work for a good cappuccino. Did you know that cappuccino is only to be had in the morning? Then it's proper to have the espressos and other fancy blends. If you ask for a cappuccino in the afternoon you get funny looks. But this hotel gives a wide variety of goodies to choose from starting at 7:30 until 9:30 each morning.
There are many different yogurts, white and whole wheat breads and a fancy toaster...butter and many jams to choose. Fresh fruit and a very cool orange juice machine. It's huge and gleaming stainless steel just like the toaster and the snazzy coffee maker. You simply put your glass under the spout and hit the "2" button. Two whole oranges roll into the machine which automatically cuts and squeezes the juice out of the oranges and into your glass. YUM! There is also a large bowl of fresh fruit cut and an assortment of pastries. All this is in addition to a nice selection of meats and cheeses, hard boiled eggs, and various cereals. The B&B in Rome provided that nice sandwich as a take along picnic lunch. And the hotel in Assisi gave us hot scrambled eggs as part of breakfast. But I think the Florence breakfast was the most complete and also featured the open terrace and garden which is so beautiful in the early morning.
So the rest of the morning and afternoon we spent wandering the area around the Duomo and managed a bit of shopping. We found a wonderful papery store with hand blocked stationery, including notepaper with very beautiful illuminations, paper replicas of Pinocchio, place cards and bookmarks...it was very hard to choose, but I managed to find a few things. We visited a similar store in Assisi, but that shop was run by the actual artist who did the printing. This shop in Florence has sister stores in New York, Palm Beach and Melbourne.
I left Jeff to take more steps than I was willing to...I saved my steps for our short Piazza Walk and Arno Tour later. We met at a shop near the Effuzi Museum at about 6:00. There were 13 of us including a group of four women from Leeds, UK, on holiday. They were very busy and had booked all kinds of cooking excursions and mountain drives in addition to this River tour. As we walked through the piazza with Ahmed, our guide, a large orchestra of teenaged players was rehearsing in the statuary area. It was fun to hear their bits and pieces of what their performance would be at some future time. Nothing was posted nearby giving details, but we hoped we'd have a chance to hear them. Of course, if JM recognized what was going to be played, he started singing, softly, as Ahmed was talking to us over the music.
We continued our walk down to the river and expected to see two or three nice boats, or one large boat for our outing...but NO. There was one little man with one pretty old looking gondola type flat bottomed wooden boat! He said we didn't need another boat, this one would do just fine...or something like that. At any rate there was no other boat in sight! And so he placed each of us in this dingy little dingy and away we went...no motor, just his long, long pole to push us down the river while Ahmed stood in the bow talking to us as we slipped under the Ponte Vecchio and down under another bridge or two. The whole "cruise" lasted about 40 minutes or less and was probably overpriced, but it was fun and we realized how much we missed sailing and the Sea Princess! We had prosecco to celebrate one of the Brits birthday...
We stopped and had pizza and pasta for dinner...no other options in this town...at a nice little outdoor cafe with no cover and no gratuity. Some restaurants charge one price for sitting outside, a little less for sitting inside, and yet less if you sit at the bar. It's a good idea to ask if there's a difference...for some there is not.
On our way back we encountered the orchestra, playing their program. They were very good and I even recorded one song, and I hope it transfers well for you to see and hear. (Sorry, it didn't.). This was a very nice day! Of course, any day with live music is a very nice day for us!
Thursday, July 4, 2013
WEDNESDAY, JULY 3, 2013. ASSISI, ITALY TO FLORENCE, ITALY...TRAIN RIDE...
We pre bought our tickets to Florence yesterday while roaming around and JM dumpster dived and scrounged boxes so we could mail some stuff off to NC...to lighten our loads. Each of us dumped a pair of shoes...SOB...my Seibel German sandals are in the dustbin! So are three shirts and a blouse and a bag of shampoo, and various other lotions and potions accumulated along the way. My suitcase does feel a little lighter, but I still can't carry it...I think I can pull it though!
And our taxi was on it's way...fortunately with a strapping young guy with a fair command of English and a sense of humor because he was going to need it! We asked him to stop at the post office so we could mail off the two boxes and he looked a little oddly at us, but said OK and away we went. Bless his heart...he translated for us, got us the forms to fill out and finally they were done and gone...seems that postoffice doesn't usually do packages. Oh, and our wallet was about €150 lighter!
Train ride was lovely, cool, and featured beautiful scenery along the way.
Upon arrival at the train station those little angels were with us once again...the train was on the track closest to the station...no steps down, walk, up steps and over necessary...just hop on that train! Well, JM still had to hoist them up to stash them between cars, but he did that much more easily it seemed. Just maybe we'll make our weight limits to fly!
Once we were in sight of Florence we faced one more obstacle...Florence has more than one train station. We missed the first one and hoped it wasn't that one! And we got off at the second, much larger one. It seemed more central or at least in an older part of town. Then, bathroom and taxi in that order! The taxi line was very, very long, but there were many, many, many taxis and a method to all the madness. Two or three taxis were available to you when you were the first person in line...you could choose according to the number of passengers and luggage. Somehow it all works.
The funniest thing we saw was a very young petite woman, very well-dressed for a summer tea party and looking very happy but hassled, literally dragging five huge Prada shopping bags to the back of the taxi queue. She got no sympathy from onlookers!
Once checked in at the Hotel Orto De' Medici, we roamed and wandered and tried to orient ourselves. We were given two welcome drinks and used them around seven o'clock before heading out again for more of the same. We actually made up our own Night Walk based on some Rick Steves info I had stored on my iPad...and it worked. It helped us get to and from our hotel and to and from our next day destination...the River Arno. But we were tired puppies early and fell into beds quite late...tomorrow we meet Florence for real!
Quote: "A room without books is as a body without a soul." ... Cicero
And our taxi was on it's way...fortunately with a strapping young guy with a fair command of English and a sense of humor because he was going to need it! We asked him to stop at the post office so we could mail off the two boxes and he looked a little oddly at us, but said OK and away we went. Bless his heart...he translated for us, got us the forms to fill out and finally they were done and gone...seems that postoffice doesn't usually do packages. Oh, and our wallet was about €150 lighter!
Train ride was lovely, cool, and featured beautiful scenery along the way.
Upon arrival at the train station those little angels were with us once again...the train was on the track closest to the station...no steps down, walk, up steps and over necessary...just hop on that train! Well, JM still had to hoist them up to stash them between cars, but he did that much more easily it seemed. Just maybe we'll make our weight limits to fly!
Once we were in sight of Florence we faced one more obstacle...Florence has more than one train station. We missed the first one and hoped it wasn't that one! And we got off at the second, much larger one. It seemed more central or at least in an older part of town. Then, bathroom and taxi in that order! The taxi line was very, very long, but there were many, many, many taxis and a method to all the madness. Two or three taxis were available to you when you were the first person in line...you could choose according to the number of passengers and luggage. Somehow it all works.
The funniest thing we saw was a very young petite woman, very well-dressed for a summer tea party and looking very happy but hassled, literally dragging five huge Prada shopping bags to the back of the taxi queue. She got no sympathy from onlookers!
Once checked in at the Hotel Orto De' Medici, we roamed and wandered and tried to orient ourselves. We were given two welcome drinks and used them around seven o'clock before heading out again for more of the same. We actually made up our own Night Walk based on some Rick Steves info I had stored on my iPad...and it worked. It helped us get to and from our hotel and to and from our next day destination...the River Arno. But we were tired puppies early and fell into beds quite late...tomorrow we meet Florence for real!
Quote: "A room without books is as a body without a soul." ... Cicero
TUESDAY, JULY 2, 2013. ASSISI...HEAVEN AND A BAD SHOWER...
Oh yes, Assisi is what heaven should be like, and our shower in this lovely hotel deserves to be thrown out with the bath water. It is supposed to be an adjustable shower, but when you attempt to put it into its little loopy holder, it falls on your head...every time. If it happens to stay in its little metal loop holder for a moment or two, most of the water runs down the cold marble wall, meaning you have to hug the wall to get water on your body! And then it falls on your head anyway! It's just a bad shower, period.
So, this is day two in Assisi, and after fussing with showers we were off to see the Basilica of Saint Francis, a ten minute walk...all downhill. So, we did that and it is a gorgeous church with the sad story of Saint Francis, who was tortured and died a horrible death, becoming a martyr. There are quiet, reserved monks and brothers all over and they give tours of the huge facility while maintaining the dignity we didn't see in many other churches, even in Rome. After touring we stopped for a snack...pizza...and then trekked up the hills stopping here and there for a bit of shopping. And photo taking, of course.
This town is a shoppers little paradise...every little boutique is unique and very cute. Of course there are many religious articles, but also normal, utilitarian items done with artistic flair and creativity. We found a gentleman who was selling paintings of mothers and infants painted and lithographed in lovely fashion. It took a bit of conversation but I learned he is the artist and when I bought a few of his items he graciously signed them for me, and threw in an extra little painting, too. Later in the evening we met him on the street and he remembered us and greeted us. That's the kind of place Assisi is.
And the bakeries! Did I mention the bakeries. I posted a picture of the ULTIMATE LADYLOCK! Think LADYLOCK tube..now fill it with the thickest best filling you've ever tasted...vanilla and creamy. Stuff it full until it weighs a little bit shy of a pound! Then put a thick coating of chocolate...the best kind that hardens yet sticks to the tube! Then chill it slightly! AHHHHH....
It's yum beyond! And meringues...as big as a dinner plate...three euros...bigger? OK, big as a platter and drizzled with chocolate...six euros, please. And every kind of filled cookie and tart! And breads and rolls!
Yes, we love Assisi. And we leave tomorrow, but we have one more story...a dinner tale. We decided to have a late dinner and tried one spot, but left when we saw the menu choices and realized there was a large and very loud party in the very small space. So we moved to a lovely little outdoor courtyard at The Lantern restaurant. The menu had many nice choices and we settled in choosing to not have wine with our dinners. There were two families with young children seated near us in our area...and a few other groups farther back in the garden area. My seat faced the kitchen which had an open door and filmy long curtain to divide it from us. The waiters were coming and going in and out and we carried on our usual dinner conversation when all of a sudden there was a crash of dishes or kitchen equipment, then the entry door behind Jeff was slammed from the inside, and then a very loud "RIDICULOUS!." Then a slew of loud Italian....yelling...then more, louder Italian, and more loud Italian. And more of a very loud man's voice obviously yelling at someone in the kitchen, then a loud SLAM of something, a couple more loud banging noises and a halt to all conversation outside in our area. We had our food by then and everything was delicious...we had no complaint at all. The other families looked as shocked as we did and we just hoped everyone in the kitchen was still employed and alive! At best it was very AWKWARD. Our waiter maintained some composure, tho' not all of it...he sort of shook his head and indicated all was not well in the kitchen. We skipped dessert and quickly paid our bill and left right behind the other families.
Other than that incident, we loved Assisi.
So, this is day two in Assisi, and after fussing with showers we were off to see the Basilica of Saint Francis, a ten minute walk...all downhill. So, we did that and it is a gorgeous church with the sad story of Saint Francis, who was tortured and died a horrible death, becoming a martyr. There are quiet, reserved monks and brothers all over and they give tours of the huge facility while maintaining the dignity we didn't see in many other churches, even in Rome. After touring we stopped for a snack...pizza...and then trekked up the hills stopping here and there for a bit of shopping. And photo taking, of course.
This town is a shoppers little paradise...every little boutique is unique and very cute. Of course there are many religious articles, but also normal, utilitarian items done with artistic flair and creativity. We found a gentleman who was selling paintings of mothers and infants painted and lithographed in lovely fashion. It took a bit of conversation but I learned he is the artist and when I bought a few of his items he graciously signed them for me, and threw in an extra little painting, too. Later in the evening we met him on the street and he remembered us and greeted us. That's the kind of place Assisi is.
And the bakeries! Did I mention the bakeries. I posted a picture of the ULTIMATE LADYLOCK! Think LADYLOCK tube..now fill it with the thickest best filling you've ever tasted...vanilla and creamy. Stuff it full until it weighs a little bit shy of a pound! Then put a thick coating of chocolate...the best kind that hardens yet sticks to the tube! Then chill it slightly! AHHHHH....
It's yum beyond! And meringues...as big as a dinner plate...three euros...bigger? OK, big as a platter and drizzled with chocolate...six euros, please. And every kind of filled cookie and tart! And breads and rolls!
Yes, we love Assisi. And we leave tomorrow, but we have one more story...a dinner tale. We decided to have a late dinner and tried one spot, but left when we saw the menu choices and realized there was a large and very loud party in the very small space. So we moved to a lovely little outdoor courtyard at The Lantern restaurant. The menu had many nice choices and we settled in choosing to not have wine with our dinners. There were two families with young children seated near us in our area...and a few other groups farther back in the garden area. My seat faced the kitchen which had an open door and filmy long curtain to divide it from us. The waiters were coming and going in and out and we carried on our usual dinner conversation when all of a sudden there was a crash of dishes or kitchen equipment, then the entry door behind Jeff was slammed from the inside, and then a very loud "RIDICULOUS!." Then a slew of loud Italian....yelling...then more, louder Italian, and more loud Italian. And more of a very loud man's voice obviously yelling at someone in the kitchen, then a loud SLAM of something, a couple more loud banging noises and a halt to all conversation outside in our area. We had our food by then and everything was delicious...we had no complaint at all. The other families looked as shocked as we did and we just hoped everyone in the kitchen was still employed and alive! At best it was very AWKWARD. Our waiter maintained some composure, tho' not all of it...he sort of shook his head and indicated all was not well in the kitchen. We skipped dessert and quickly paid our bill and left right behind the other families.
Other than that incident, we loved Assisi.
MONDAY, JULY 1, 2013. TO ASSISI BY HOOK OR BY CROOK...OR BY TRAIN!
JM pre purchased our train tickets in Rome at the local Saint Peter's train station, very close to our hotel and I contacted our Assisi hotel to let them know that we would be arriving late because we had two tours booked...one Saint Peter's and the Sistine Chapel, and the other was independent tickets to the Vatican Museums. We headed out early Monday morning, met our group across the street from the walls of the Vatican, and worked our way to the entrance to the Vatican Museums. There were hundreds and hundreds of people in lines that went all the way to Saint Peter's Square...a very long distance. Our heads were spinning knowing that we would be in those lines after lunch with our other tour tickets. It was a very hot morning already, at 8:00 and the thought wasn't a good one. We talked and decided to reserve judgement until after tour number one.
Finally we were in, having bypassed almost all the people waiting in line, although we still had to clear security, ticket purchase by our guide, and a bathroom stop for all. If I had one bit of advice, and I think Daniel told me the same thing, "If you go to the Vatican, book a tour to skip the awful lines!" And we started...up, up, up, a big bunch of stairs! Almost as many as up to the Acropolis!
All the galleries were filled with tour groups and were very crowded and this was early on a Monday morning. We were told to keep moving along and through each gallery and we had headsets to hear our guide. I'm sure that with so many guides, the noise level really could get high with all of them trying to make themselves heard, but those cheesy little earphones kept falling out of my ears. JM, fortunately was looking out for me with a set of much better ones that hook over the ears...those worked so much better.
When all was said and done, we saw all the things we wanted to see in the three or four hours and decided to forfeit our independent non-transferable tickets for the afternoon in favor of an earlier getaway to Assisi. Sad but true.
So, we ate our packed focaccia sandwiches at the colonnade in Saint Peter's and said good- bye to Rome. We retrieved our luggage, dragged it a block to the taxi stand, and took it on faith that we'd be able to use our late tickets for an earlier train. We did. With all those angels and saints watching over us, we dragged our heavy stuff about a mile in the heat of the day to the train...JM had to bail me out when I just couldn't manage mine anymore and started looking for a heart specialist or defibrillator instead of the Assisi train. It was a most awful time and the worst part was that JM was upset...with me, 'cause I just couldn't do it. I did my best...
Fortunately he booked us first class...the sweetie knows how to treat Mom...which was air conditioned and not too crowded and once our breathing and colors returned to normal, we knew we'd be OK.
As we got off the train in Assisi, we realized that to get to the station, and the necessary taxi, we had to take our luggage, down about 15 steps, walk a bit, then take them up about 15 steps...to go under the tracks and up again. So, although I tried, I couldn't do it, I took the lightest bags and bless his heart, JM sweated the rest of them down, over and up. We vowed to throw stuff out and send more home if we had to, to get them manageable.
So, once in our room, I turned him loose and told him to go explore while I got myself a little rest and water. When he returned about an hour later, he was all huge smiles and said, "Mom, this is the most beautiful place I've ever seen!" My heart skipped and I knew we were OK again. But I also knew I would have to dump stuff and better help carry our load.
Our hotel is in the middle of the town, up high on the hill...surrounded by ancient trees, churches, chapels and serenaded by birds every minute. The little shops are darling and every one is different. Artists, calligraphers, booksellers, ceramic artists, and musicians, share this art minded town, giving it a very unique, serene atmosphere. We have about a ten minute walk downhill to the Basilica of St Francis and about ten minutes uphill the other way are piazzas and parks and more restaurants and shops.
Our hotel is being called home by a Rick Steve's tour of Italy. These folks are from USA and are finishing a 13 day Italy tour. They will be here tomorrow and then leave for Rome to finish. So, we figure, if it's good enough for Rick Steves, it's probably good enough for us. In fact, it is an adorable, flower and art-filled place. Perhaps it was a large home or retreat in its former life, but it is just a beautiful small boutique hotel in this one! Plus the staff is very welcoming and friendly and helpful, too. There is a lovely patio area surrounded by viney things and fragrant flowers and we had dinner that night after exploring our new neighborhood. Our meal and wine was very nicely prepared and delicious. Dessert? Hah! Gelato!
In the end, our rough day turned beautiful and it must be all those angels and saints again. I think they have followed us. What a precious time to pause and reflect and rest. Peace and good. All will be well.
Finally we were in, having bypassed almost all the people waiting in line, although we still had to clear security, ticket purchase by our guide, and a bathroom stop for all. If I had one bit of advice, and I think Daniel told me the same thing, "If you go to the Vatican, book a tour to skip the awful lines!" And we started...up, up, up, a big bunch of stairs! Almost as many as up to the Acropolis!
All the galleries were filled with tour groups and were very crowded and this was early on a Monday morning. We were told to keep moving along and through each gallery and we had headsets to hear our guide. I'm sure that with so many guides, the noise level really could get high with all of them trying to make themselves heard, but those cheesy little earphones kept falling out of my ears. JM, fortunately was looking out for me with a set of much better ones that hook over the ears...those worked so much better.
When all was said and done, we saw all the things we wanted to see in the three or four hours and decided to forfeit our independent non-transferable tickets for the afternoon in favor of an earlier getaway to Assisi. Sad but true.
So, we ate our packed focaccia sandwiches at the colonnade in Saint Peter's and said good- bye to Rome. We retrieved our luggage, dragged it a block to the taxi stand, and took it on faith that we'd be able to use our late tickets for an earlier train. We did. With all those angels and saints watching over us, we dragged our heavy stuff about a mile in the heat of the day to the train...JM had to bail me out when I just couldn't manage mine anymore and started looking for a heart specialist or defibrillator instead of the Assisi train. It was a most awful time and the worst part was that JM was upset...with me, 'cause I just couldn't do it. I did my best...
Fortunately he booked us first class...the sweetie knows how to treat Mom...which was air conditioned and not too crowded and once our breathing and colors returned to normal, we knew we'd be OK.
As we got off the train in Assisi, we realized that to get to the station, and the necessary taxi, we had to take our luggage, down about 15 steps, walk a bit, then take them up about 15 steps...to go under the tracks and up again. So, although I tried, I couldn't do it, I took the lightest bags and bless his heart, JM sweated the rest of them down, over and up. We vowed to throw stuff out and send more home if we had to, to get them manageable.
So, once in our room, I turned him loose and told him to go explore while I got myself a little rest and water. When he returned about an hour later, he was all huge smiles and said, "Mom, this is the most beautiful place I've ever seen!" My heart skipped and I knew we were OK again. But I also knew I would have to dump stuff and better help carry our load.
Our hotel is in the middle of the town, up high on the hill...surrounded by ancient trees, churches, chapels and serenaded by birds every minute. The little shops are darling and every one is different. Artists, calligraphers, booksellers, ceramic artists, and musicians, share this art minded town, giving it a very unique, serene atmosphere. We have about a ten minute walk downhill to the Basilica of St Francis and about ten minutes uphill the other way are piazzas and parks and more restaurants and shops.
Our hotel is being called home by a Rick Steve's tour of Italy. These folks are from USA and are finishing a 13 day Italy tour. They will be here tomorrow and then leave for Rome to finish. So, we figure, if it's good enough for Rick Steves, it's probably good enough for us. In fact, it is an adorable, flower and art-filled place. Perhaps it was a large home or retreat in its former life, but it is just a beautiful small boutique hotel in this one! Plus the staff is very welcoming and friendly and helpful, too. There is a lovely patio area surrounded by viney things and fragrant flowers and we had dinner that night after exploring our new neighborhood. Our meal and wine was very nicely prepared and delicious. Dessert? Hah! Gelato!
In the end, our rough day turned beautiful and it must be all those angels and saints again. I think they have followed us. What a precious time to pause and reflect and rest. Peace and good. All will be well.
Wednesday, July 3, 2013
SUNDAY, JUNE 30, 2013. Roaming Rome...
Sunday dawned as pretty a day as the day before and J Michael, who was itching to get more photos taken, took off to roam Rome especially the Pantheon. I stayed behind to give my poor knees a rest before we embarked on our mid afternoon Imperial Rome tour. All of our tours in Rome and Florence are through www.selectitaly.com at Dan and Angela's suggestion. They toured Italy a couple of years ago and loved the tours they took; the company got highest marks from Travel and Leisure magazine too. So, we are anxious to start these and see how they compare with all the excursions we took while on Sea Princess. It's a high bar, in some case ...in others, well, if they dumped us in the middle of Rome and gave us a compass and a good luck rabbit foot, it would come close to the guides we couldn't understand or who droned on and on and on and on and....
So off JM went. While I was catching up on email and blogging, I heard a loud voice coming through the open shutters...it was Papa Francesco again addressing the crowds in Saint Peter's Square at noon! What a surprise. It was inspiring to hear again the enthusiasm in his voice and the happy energetic inflections as he spoke. As awesome was the crowd's response. "Papa Francesco, Papa Francesco!!!" Over and over and over again.
We headed off later to meet the guide for our tour of the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, and the Forum. After a few false starts, we did find Mario and 11 other happy campers and headed off to wander some more old, crumbly buildings. It was a very hot afternoon, as usual, with many, many steps, as usual, but I managed to keep up with the troops.
Our group was primarily Americans from Indiana, and Texas, among other states. Mario did a good job, but the early part was confusing because Select Italy wasn't mentioned, something called Gardtour was the logo...it must be contracted out to do tours in some places. It was a very beautiful combination of sights and sounds and we heard him say that Rome is better than Florence, because Rome and Assisi are built in the hills they are always breezy and pleasant, while Florence is in a valley and is always hot. Great! We head to the hot valley in three days!
We ended up in another huge and beautiful piazza, (I think it was called Piazza Florentine) and I sat on a marble step to listen to an older gentleman play classical guitar, while JM wandered back to our starting point to get a better photo of the Colosseum. I just saw it and walked it and didn't need to do it again. So I settled myself with beautiful music, a lovely breeze, a cast of characters parading in front of me and a secure feeling of all's right with my world. I applauded after every selection, sometimes the only applaud-er. When JM returned we listened to another beautiful selection, applauded, I fished out a five euro note and deposited it into the guitarist's case and he promptly said "no". I said, "Yes, and grazie, your music was lovely", and he handed me one of his CD's. I graciously accepted it with more thanks and we headed on our way back across town.
We stopped for dinner at another outdoor cafe, followed by dessert gelato...what else? And tomorrow, we leave for Assisi and Part Two of our Italy Adventure.
Here are a few pictures of our first Italy guided tour and the beautiful piazza.
So off JM went. While I was catching up on email and blogging, I heard a loud voice coming through the open shutters...it was Papa Francesco again addressing the crowds in Saint Peter's Square at noon! What a surprise. It was inspiring to hear again the enthusiasm in his voice and the happy energetic inflections as he spoke. As awesome was the crowd's response. "Papa Francesco, Papa Francesco!!!" Over and over and over again.
We headed off later to meet the guide for our tour of the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, and the Forum. After a few false starts, we did find Mario and 11 other happy campers and headed off to wander some more old, crumbly buildings. It was a very hot afternoon, as usual, with many, many steps, as usual, but I managed to keep up with the troops.
Our group was primarily Americans from Indiana, and Texas, among other states. Mario did a good job, but the early part was confusing because Select Italy wasn't mentioned, something called Gardtour was the logo...it must be contracted out to do tours in some places. It was a very beautiful combination of sights and sounds and we heard him say that Rome is better than Florence, because Rome and Assisi are built in the hills they are always breezy and pleasant, while Florence is in a valley and is always hot. Great! We head to the hot valley in three days!
We ended up in another huge and beautiful piazza, (I think it was called Piazza Florentine) and I sat on a marble step to listen to an older gentleman play classical guitar, while JM wandered back to our starting point to get a better photo of the Colosseum. I just saw it and walked it and didn't need to do it again. So I settled myself with beautiful music, a lovely breeze, a cast of characters parading in front of me and a secure feeling of all's right with my world. I applauded after every selection, sometimes the only applaud-er. When JM returned we listened to another beautiful selection, applauded, I fished out a five euro note and deposited it into the guitarist's case and he promptly said "no". I said, "Yes, and grazie, your music was lovely", and he handed me one of his CD's. I graciously accepted it with more thanks and we headed on our way back across town.
We stopped for dinner at another outdoor cafe, followed by dessert gelato...what else? And tomorrow, we leave for Assisi and Part Two of our Italy Adventure.
Here are a few pictures of our first Italy guided tour and the beautiful piazza.
Monday, July 1, 2013
SATURDAY, JUNE 29, 2013. The Italian Adventure continues...
Saturday dawned early, bright and beautiful and Maria was here to make us our breakfast: coffee, yogurt, pomegranate juice, and Italian pastries...also ham,salami, and cheese on focaccia breads to go with us for lunch. Very nice plan. We had no tours and looked forward to roaming around Rome for the day.
As we started to eat, the French couple rushed out and said in a mixture of Italian, English, and French..."Papa Francesco is at Saint Peters square...now. Everyone is going there." So, we hurriedly gathered our stuff together and headed in that direction, only to be met by more and more people going the same way. There was a sense of expectancy and excitement. This was just shortly after ten o'clock.
It's only a five minute or less walk to the square from our B&B, which, by the way is really a three bedroom lockout-type apartment with a common small eating area, but no lounge or sitting room. Each bedroom has its own bath with small shower, nicely done but minimal.
To continue...we arrived at the colonnade area and got in the security check line which funneled us into the huge piazza which seemed to be subdivided into a sitting area and farther back, a standing area. We squeezed into the sitting area and as we walked closer and closer to the front we realized that most of the seats were available. We really had no clue what was happening or where. Once we sat, right in the center facing St. Peter's on the aisle about six rows from the fence, we heard the Pope speaking and very close to our left was a large TV screen showing the Holy Father saying Mass...early on. People watching were divided - some were participating and some were just watching, TV like.
I tried to figure out if this was live or not and said to JM, "I don't think this is real. I think this is a rerun of an older Mass, maybe Pentecost or his first Mass after becoming Pope." A little while later, JM said, "Are they going to edit out Communion...there are a lot of people in there!" And then I said, "It's not real, because there are lots of Cardinals in there and if he's leaving tomorrow for the summer, they wouldn't come all that way".
We proceeded to watch and look around for more clues to what might be going on. Some people stood and kneeled, repeatedly and said the right responses as if they were participating! It was very strange because there were only about three or four people in the rows in front of us, and not many at all behind us. Most people were sort of in front of the TV screen. And there were people milling around the perimeter as well as around the entrances to Saint Peter's. at one point JM said,"I really don't want to sit here for two hours and wait for him to appear at the window...and he might not!" But still we sat.
Suddenly, out from the front doors came two very long lines of priests with ciborium ready to distribute Communion! We were flabbergasted and flummoxed to say the least! We started paying closer attention, for sure! And we moved closer...to the first row. People got in lines, sort of, and the priests fanned out on the other side of the fence to give Communion to the people in our sitting area. We were very humbled by that experience, to say the least. We expected nothing more, but after Mass ended, the crowds didn't disperse, but seemed to move toward the right hand side of the piazza, or closer to the Pope's apartment...and we noticed the window had a cloth hanging from it making it different from the other windows.
We waited while Saint Peter's emptied out, then we moved to our left, past the TV screen, and out through the colonnade near where we had entered. It was about 11:30-11:45. At noon, sure enough, Pope Francis appeared at his window and an enthusiastic crowd greeted him with applause and Italian wishes. He spoke for about 10 minutes or so with great feeling in his voice and sounded very hearty with his expressions. He asked everyone to pray with him and we did, and then he gave his blessing to all of us and talked a little bit more. I don't know what he said, but it sounded very friendly and very familiar.
I've posted a couple of photos from that very special time. Now, I realize it wasn't a private audience or a face to face one on one meeting, but to us, because it was so very unexpected...was so very meaningful. The frustrations we had had the day before had gone away and we were beginning our love affair with Rome.
Would the rest of the day match our morning? Well, we wandered the streets, taking hundreds of photos and stopped for a late dinner in one of the thousand eateries. We liked this one because it looked out on a quiet, old corner of buildings and wasn't jammed with noisy folks, but a few older groups who were eating and drinking with gusto! After dinner, we hurried toward the river and Castle area for fireworks set to begin at 9:30. We could hear very well the first of the noisy explosions as the sound bounced off the narrow cobblestone walkways and marble and stone buildings. And the crowds were growing much heavier the closer we got to the river.
But there was a problem...there wasn't enough room for all the people and the outdoor cafes weren't very happy trying to deliver dinner to diners swamped by this enormous crowd. At one point, we just couldn't move forward any more and the crowd started getting stupid...pushing and trying to get through even though it was not possible. I was behind JM and I felt that awful feeling of anxiety and that I HAD to get some breathing space...and there just wasn't any. I tapped his shoulder and tried to tell him I needed to get some space and he let me slide in front of him and then he spaced himself behind me but with some moving room. The display ended soon and we tried to continue forward but that wasn't possible. A stream of people had started going back and we joined in staying right close to the buildings for some space. JM guided us to a place where the human traffic was less and I was soon able to breathe like a normal person again.
That was pretty awful and reminded me of the bad experience in Kuala Lumpur at the KL Tower. I wrote about that earlier and when your anti anxiety med is back at the ranch...well, you muddle through the best you can. To end the evening we didn't need to get a taxi, as the adrenalin enabled me to walk another mile or so. We then tried gelato, ending the day with a resounding, "YUM"! It was a day to remember!
As we started to eat, the French couple rushed out and said in a mixture of Italian, English, and French..."Papa Francesco is at Saint Peters square...now. Everyone is going there." So, we hurriedly gathered our stuff together and headed in that direction, only to be met by more and more people going the same way. There was a sense of expectancy and excitement. This was just shortly after ten o'clock.
It's only a five minute or less walk to the square from our B&B, which, by the way is really a three bedroom lockout-type apartment with a common small eating area, but no lounge or sitting room. Each bedroom has its own bath with small shower, nicely done but minimal.
To continue...we arrived at the colonnade area and got in the security check line which funneled us into the huge piazza which seemed to be subdivided into a sitting area and farther back, a standing area. We squeezed into the sitting area and as we walked closer and closer to the front we realized that most of the seats were available. We really had no clue what was happening or where. Once we sat, right in the center facing St. Peter's on the aisle about six rows from the fence, we heard the Pope speaking and very close to our left was a large TV screen showing the Holy Father saying Mass...early on. People watching were divided - some were participating and some were just watching, TV like.
I tried to figure out if this was live or not and said to JM, "I don't think this is real. I think this is a rerun of an older Mass, maybe Pentecost or his first Mass after becoming Pope." A little while later, JM said, "Are they going to edit out Communion...there are a lot of people in there!" And then I said, "It's not real, because there are lots of Cardinals in there and if he's leaving tomorrow for the summer, they wouldn't come all that way".
We proceeded to watch and look around for more clues to what might be going on. Some people stood and kneeled, repeatedly and said the right responses as if they were participating! It was very strange because there were only about three or four people in the rows in front of us, and not many at all behind us. Most people were sort of in front of the TV screen. And there were people milling around the perimeter as well as around the entrances to Saint Peter's. at one point JM said,"I really don't want to sit here for two hours and wait for him to appear at the window...and he might not!" But still we sat.
Suddenly, out from the front doors came two very long lines of priests with ciborium ready to distribute Communion! We were flabbergasted and flummoxed to say the least! We started paying closer attention, for sure! And we moved closer...to the first row. People got in lines, sort of, and the priests fanned out on the other side of the fence to give Communion to the people in our sitting area. We were very humbled by that experience, to say the least. We expected nothing more, but after Mass ended, the crowds didn't disperse, but seemed to move toward the right hand side of the piazza, or closer to the Pope's apartment...and we noticed the window had a cloth hanging from it making it different from the other windows.
We waited while Saint Peter's emptied out, then we moved to our left, past the TV screen, and out through the colonnade near where we had entered. It was about 11:30-11:45. At noon, sure enough, Pope Francis appeared at his window and an enthusiastic crowd greeted him with applause and Italian wishes. He spoke for about 10 minutes or so with great feeling in his voice and sounded very hearty with his expressions. He asked everyone to pray with him and we did, and then he gave his blessing to all of us and talked a little bit more. I don't know what he said, but it sounded very friendly and very familiar.
I've posted a couple of photos from that very special time. Now, I realize it wasn't a private audience or a face to face one on one meeting, but to us, because it was so very unexpected...was so very meaningful. The frustrations we had had the day before had gone away and we were beginning our love affair with Rome.
Would the rest of the day match our morning? Well, we wandered the streets, taking hundreds of photos and stopped for a late dinner in one of the thousand eateries. We liked this one because it looked out on a quiet, old corner of buildings and wasn't jammed with noisy folks, but a few older groups who were eating and drinking with gusto! After dinner, we hurried toward the river and Castle area for fireworks set to begin at 9:30. We could hear very well the first of the noisy explosions as the sound bounced off the narrow cobblestone walkways and marble and stone buildings. And the crowds were growing much heavier the closer we got to the river.
But there was a problem...there wasn't enough room for all the people and the outdoor cafes weren't very happy trying to deliver dinner to diners swamped by this enormous crowd. At one point, we just couldn't move forward any more and the crowd started getting stupid...pushing and trying to get through even though it was not possible. I was behind JM and I felt that awful feeling of anxiety and that I HAD to get some breathing space...and there just wasn't any. I tapped his shoulder and tried to tell him I needed to get some space and he let me slide in front of him and then he spaced himself behind me but with some moving room. The display ended soon and we tried to continue forward but that wasn't possible. A stream of people had started going back and we joined in staying right close to the buildings for some space. JM guided us to a place where the human traffic was less and I was soon able to breathe like a normal person again.
That was pretty awful and reminded me of the bad experience in Kuala Lumpur at the KL Tower. I wrote about that earlier and when your anti anxiety med is back at the ranch...well, you muddle through the best you can. To end the evening we didn't need to get a taxi, as the adrenalin enabled me to walk another mile or so. We then tried gelato, ending the day with a resounding, "YUM"! It was a day to remember!
Saturday, June 29, 2013
FRIDAY, JUNE 28, 2013. THE ITALIAN ADVENTURE, ROME
This was our day to disembark the Sea Princess and journey to Rome. To say it didn't go as planned, didn't go well, was a mess, was stressful...well, none of those phrases begin to describe how miserable it really was. After we cleared immigration onboard we were challenged immediately when we tried to actually move our luggage off the ship...the problem was that all elevators were filled with new mattresses which were being unloaded and moved to and fro through our deck. My suitcase was impounded to be moved separately and became missing shortly thereafter. Finally, we were reunited and settled ourselves outside the ship, but inside the security perimeter.
While waiting we spoke with a crew person who helps with excursion details and he advised us to move our luggage via shuttle bus to outside the port area where he said our driver would probably meet us. This was around 9:45 or so. We re-read our materials. Rather than an 11:00 target it seemed to say more likely it would be a noon pickup. At this point, I could probably get back on the ship; not so for JM...he was O.U.T. So we discussed and guessed, surmised and thought and decided to take the expert's advice. We loaded all our stuff into the shuttle and moved to the outer perimeter of the port, near a McDonalds! More waiting, watching and guessing and dragging our stuff along as we tried to figure out the best vantage point. Giving up, we figured a phone call to the company hired to meet us would be a good thing. Next problem? Find a phone and make the call. Well, that went badly too, as the phone had Italian instructions which made no sense to JM and when he was able to make a call, the number was disconnected or something similar. At this point, JM was very frustrated and I was standing with a pile of baggage in the hot sun by the side of a busy, busy road.
We moved to another spot, closer to the shuttle buses where we could go back to the Sea Princess perimeter if we needed to do that, but saw Jenene, JM's singing partner, and she commented that she saw a man with a sign saying "Beech" back at the ship. So I was sent back to the ship on the next shuttle while JM stayed with the baggage. That took awhile, but I did find him and his van held about nine other people who were crammed into it, and now about 40 minutes behind schedule. I got in and apologized profusely for holding everyone up and we jetted off to find JM and our luggage. That took awhile, too, but finally we were reunited and headed to Rome.
The drive to Rome was without incident...nice highway, and quiet as our driver spoke no English. Couldn't tell if the other passengers were English speakers, disgusted, or asleep! JM and I were in the front seat with him; we were all on physically friendly terms I guess you could say. Once in the city, he had been given instructions to just drop us someplace pretty far away from our B&B, but we asked for door to door service and he complied and we tipped him generously as a result.
Once at the B&B we rang the bell on the door of the building, but soon realized no one was there. We couldn't get in and it is an apartment building with a locked access door to the foyer. What to do? A woman came out shortly and didn't close the door all the way so in we went with all of our luggage. We drew straws and I lost and walked up about a hundred steps to the apartment/B&B on the 4th floor. I knocked and rang, but no one was answering. I found the lift and got back down to JM. We fussed a bit more and decided to move our luggage up and as we completed that task, our hostess arrived and let us in. She is charming and her name is Maria. Maria needed to make up our room, but made us comfortable with snacks and cool drinks while we planned our next moves.
We wandered about our new neighborhood which is just beautiful and very convenient to shops, the Pope, and gelato...what more do we need? But later we decided to do the Night Walk and to get bus tickets to the starting point. The bus station is a very short walk from us and we, of course, ran into more problems; the machine wouldn't take our euro note after repeated tries and many not nice words from JM. After giving up we went to the Bus Station Help Desk, but he spoke no English and that was hopeless as we couldn't make ourselves understood at all.
We walked every bit of it, probably a couple of miles, took a thousand pictures or more, and went to sleep very tired, very confused and praying ... a lot...for a better day tomorrow.
While waiting we spoke with a crew person who helps with excursion details and he advised us to move our luggage via shuttle bus to outside the port area where he said our driver would probably meet us. This was around 9:45 or so. We re-read our materials. Rather than an 11:00 target it seemed to say more likely it would be a noon pickup. At this point, I could probably get back on the ship; not so for JM...he was O.U.T. So we discussed and guessed, surmised and thought and decided to take the expert's advice. We loaded all our stuff into the shuttle and moved to the outer perimeter of the port, near a McDonalds! More waiting, watching and guessing and dragging our stuff along as we tried to figure out the best vantage point. Giving up, we figured a phone call to the company hired to meet us would be a good thing. Next problem? Find a phone and make the call. Well, that went badly too, as the phone had Italian instructions which made no sense to JM and when he was able to make a call, the number was disconnected or something similar. At this point, JM was very frustrated and I was standing with a pile of baggage in the hot sun by the side of a busy, busy road.
We moved to another spot, closer to the shuttle buses where we could go back to the Sea Princess perimeter if we needed to do that, but saw Jenene, JM's singing partner, and she commented that she saw a man with a sign saying "Beech" back at the ship. So I was sent back to the ship on the next shuttle while JM stayed with the baggage. That took awhile, but I did find him and his van held about nine other people who were crammed into it, and now about 40 minutes behind schedule. I got in and apologized profusely for holding everyone up and we jetted off to find JM and our luggage. That took awhile, too, but finally we were reunited and headed to Rome.
The drive to Rome was without incident...nice highway, and quiet as our driver spoke no English. Couldn't tell if the other passengers were English speakers, disgusted, or asleep! JM and I were in the front seat with him; we were all on physically friendly terms I guess you could say. Once in the city, he had been given instructions to just drop us someplace pretty far away from our B&B, but we asked for door to door service and he complied and we tipped him generously as a result.
Once at the B&B we rang the bell on the door of the building, but soon realized no one was there. We couldn't get in and it is an apartment building with a locked access door to the foyer. What to do? A woman came out shortly and didn't close the door all the way so in we went with all of our luggage. We drew straws and I lost and walked up about a hundred steps to the apartment/B&B on the 4th floor. I knocked and rang, but no one was answering. I found the lift and got back down to JM. We fussed a bit more and decided to move our luggage up and as we completed that task, our hostess arrived and let us in. She is charming and her name is Maria. Maria needed to make up our room, but made us comfortable with snacks and cool drinks while we planned our next moves.
We wandered about our new neighborhood which is just beautiful and very convenient to shops, the Pope, and gelato...what more do we need? But later we decided to do the Night Walk and to get bus tickets to the starting point. The bus station is a very short walk from us and we, of course, ran into more problems; the machine wouldn't take our euro note after repeated tries and many not nice words from JM. After giving up we went to the Bus Station Help Desk, but he spoke no English and that was hopeless as we couldn't make ourselves understood at all.
We walked every bit of it, probably a couple of miles, took a thousand pictures or more, and went to sleep very tired, very confused and praying ... a lot...for a better day tomorrow.
Friday, June 28, 2013
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 26th AT SEA. And THURSDAY, JUNE 27th, 2013. NAPLES, ITALY
So, today at sea we will round the southern coast of Greece across the Ionian Sea and later tonight well round the southern coast of Italy and head up between Sicily and Italy through the Messina Straits toward Naples. We're quickly coming to the end of our odyssey.
Finished laundry and have pieces hanging all over my room. Went to choir but late and stayed in the back. I just had a funny feeling that the weeps would take over and I didn't want to embarrass myself or anyone who might misunderstand. Sometimes it's just the lyrics of a song, or other times it's a chord that just sounds ethereal or a chord that brings an old or new memory to the forefront.
But I suspect this time it's because I'm leaving in the midst of a commitment that I really enjoyed. Sure, there were cranky people from time to time, but in the end it's about something else entirely ...maybe it's our common goal of performance that drives us to try harder, to focus more, and work more diligently...to please each other and Alana and Alan. I think maybe when at sea for a certain length of time our sense of self changes a bit and music aids that correction in a good way. It also reaches our pleasure place and can even give giggles, like hearing Purple People Eater after umpteen years!
THURSDAY, NAPLES
In the morning, JM called and we met Alana and Alan and walked the city a bit, stopping to discover one of the modern wonders of the world...coffee and chocolate Naples style! What a joy to move through the busy morning traffic and just enjoy each others company! Sunny morning, light breezes, outdoor cafe, folks rushing to work, our chocolate delights! But JM was due to organize the confusion for the afternoon excursions and he needed to get back, so we scampered back to Mother Ship and prepared to launch ourselves on our very last tour...this time to Herculaneum and a chance to see and understand the volcanic devastation.
While Pompeii had 20,000 residents, Herculaneum had a mere 4,000. That meant our area to cover was much, much less and the day was lovely, so it was a pleasure to feel the breezes and hear the birds ...I guess I miss our birds! The city is in the middle of Naples, surrounded by apartment buildings and some greenery and gardens and lots of colorful flowers. Hovering over it is, of course, Mt Vesuvius. It was amazing to see all the mosaics and frescos and how fresh some parts look after more than 2000 years. JM took hundreds of pictures and I took a few too...see below.
We got back to the ship and started our packing although neither of us was in the mood for the task. We stopped after eight for a quick dinner and headed to Crooners for some relaxing music. Back to pack more, and back to Crooners to end the night. Shared some wine and champagne, chocolate and other sweets then said goodbyes half heartedly. The day was a brilliant one to remember.
Finished laundry and have pieces hanging all over my room. Went to choir but late and stayed in the back. I just had a funny feeling that the weeps would take over and I didn't want to embarrass myself or anyone who might misunderstand. Sometimes it's just the lyrics of a song, or other times it's a chord that just sounds ethereal or a chord that brings an old or new memory to the forefront.
But I suspect this time it's because I'm leaving in the midst of a commitment that I really enjoyed. Sure, there were cranky people from time to time, but in the end it's about something else entirely ...maybe it's our common goal of performance that drives us to try harder, to focus more, and work more diligently...to please each other and Alana and Alan. I think maybe when at sea for a certain length of time our sense of self changes a bit and music aids that correction in a good way. It also reaches our pleasure place and can even give giggles, like hearing Purple People Eater after umpteen years!
THURSDAY, NAPLES
In the morning, JM called and we met Alana and Alan and walked the city a bit, stopping to discover one of the modern wonders of the world...coffee and chocolate Naples style! What a joy to move through the busy morning traffic and just enjoy each others company! Sunny morning, light breezes, outdoor cafe, folks rushing to work, our chocolate delights! But JM was due to organize the confusion for the afternoon excursions and he needed to get back, so we scampered back to Mother Ship and prepared to launch ourselves on our very last tour...this time to Herculaneum and a chance to see and understand the volcanic devastation.
While Pompeii had 20,000 residents, Herculaneum had a mere 4,000. That meant our area to cover was much, much less and the day was lovely, so it was a pleasure to feel the breezes and hear the birds ...I guess I miss our birds! The city is in the middle of Naples, surrounded by apartment buildings and some greenery and gardens and lots of colorful flowers. Hovering over it is, of course, Mt Vesuvius. It was amazing to see all the mosaics and frescos and how fresh some parts look after more than 2000 years. JM took hundreds of pictures and I took a few too...see below.
We got back to the ship and started our packing although neither of us was in the mood for the task. We stopped after eight for a quick dinner and headed to Crooners for some relaxing music. Back to pack more, and back to Crooners to end the night. Shared some wine and champagne, chocolate and other sweets then said goodbyes half heartedly. The day was a brilliant one to remember.
TUESDAY, JUNE 25, 2013. ANZAC COVE (scenic)
ANZAC Cove was named after the Australian and New Zealand Army Corp landed there in June, 1915 and undertook the first battle of World War 1. Thousands of lives were lost in this Battle of Gallipoli which lasted an incredible eight months.
In tribute to these soldiers, the ship held an early morning memorial service presided over by Captain William Kent and featured the Sea Princess Pop Choir. It was very, very hot on the deck because we were barely moving and the sun was blazing on us. But our song was lovely and I think both Alan and Alana are thrilled...that it's over! It was stressful for Alan and for the choir too, because we all wanted it to be perfect.
We also sang the Aussie and Kiwi National Anthems and a few other hymns. Then it was laundry day again. Both JMB and me want to have all our clothes clean to travel to Italy on Friday, but to our dismay, all laundries are again CLOSED until tomorrow morning.
Tonight is Jeff's last two shows...they both went on, but show number one was slightly tragic with mic problems and missing props. Show two went very well and Jeff sang his heart out!
We reluctantly missed LOVE THEME ENTERTAINMENT trivia! When we don't make it to trivia or music it seems like something is missing...what happens when we get off the ship?
Tomorrow is our last Sea Day!
QUOTE from the Patter: "You know you're in love when you can't fall asleep because reality is finally better than your dreams." ...Dr. Seuss
In tribute to these soldiers, the ship held an early morning memorial service presided over by Captain William Kent and featured the Sea Princess Pop Choir. It was very, very hot on the deck because we were barely moving and the sun was blazing on us. But our song was lovely and I think both Alan and Alana are thrilled...that it's over! It was stressful for Alan and for the choir too, because we all wanted it to be perfect.
We also sang the Aussie and Kiwi National Anthems and a few other hymns. Then it was laundry day again. Both JMB and me want to have all our clothes clean to travel to Italy on Friday, but to our dismay, all laundries are again CLOSED until tomorrow morning.
Tonight is Jeff's last two shows...they both went on, but show number one was slightly tragic with mic problems and missing props. Show two went very well and Jeff sang his heart out!
We reluctantly missed LOVE THEME ENTERTAINMENT trivia! When we don't make it to trivia or music it seems like something is missing...what happens when we get off the ship?
Tomorrow is our last Sea Day!
QUOTE from the Patter: "You know you're in love when you can't fall asleep because reality is finally better than your dreams." ...Dr. Seuss
MONDAY, JUNE 24, 2013. ISTANBUL, TURKEY
The Captain talked to us last night and said we would continue on to Istanbul. Even though there might be problems in other parts of the country, he felt that we should stop...he told us very specifically which areas to avoid and, since the tours were to less targeted areas he was certain we would be safe.
In the morning we were given letters from Captain Kent, reiterating his message of the night before and Jeff and I went off with 38 other hearty souls to visit Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque with over three hours left for us to wander the 4000 shops in the Grand Bazaar...no guide needed or wanted for that part. And we probably managed to see about half of them...at least it felt like it.
First a word about the port...so unusual to be at the actual link of Asia and Europe. One side of the ship looks at one continent and the other side another place entirely.
Now we got lucky again with a wonderful guide who looked like Jim Valvano and with a similar personality...chatty, funny, and opinionated. While we were in the main pedestrian only boulevard leading to the Blue Mosque, a number of motorcycles zoomed by. Finally he stopped a couple of them and yelled at them in Turkish of course. I don't know exactly what he said but it wasn't too nice and I think he got his point across. They were interrupting his train of thought as well as disrupting guests in his country...I think that's the gist of what he said.
So, we got in line to receive a look over by the fashion police of Islam...then some of us got blue scarves to better cover our hair and elbows, others got whole robes to cover shoulders, elbows, arms, and knees. Then, we were told to take our shoes off and put them in plastic bags which were provided. We did not have to do the ritual washing of almost everything, but we were granted access to the mosque. What followed was an in depth discussion of Islam as well as a thorough explanation of the mosque's history and how it is used today when the call to prayer is sounded. Very interesting stuff...nothing scary or intimidating at all.
But it was a very warm day and having to wrap your head and cover your arms in an unknown rough fabric encouraged the perspiration to run down...well, pretty much everywhere. The Mosque has about 20,000 delicate blue Iznik tiles in 33 shades of blue, more than 216 stained glass windows and more than 50 different tulip designs.. After the tiles were made it is said that the color recipes were destroyed so tiles like those will never be made again...it also means that if some are stolen or fall off, too bad kids! And it is also said that one tile was recently sold and brought $240,000.
JMB fussed at the bare feet aroma lingering in the Mosque, but enjoyed photographing it. Several men came in to pray while we were there: they were early for the next call and seemed totally unbothered by the throngs of people and tour guides. We left, and put our shoes on as we clambered down the marble steps outside. Then we all walked across the plaza to Hagia Sophia, one of the greatest examples of Byzantine architecture rich with mosaics and marble pillars and coverings. St. Sophia is a World Heritage Site, so I can cross one more off my list.
Back on the bus, we rambled and rumbled to a carpet demonstration and learned the difference between Turkish carpets and Persian carpets. (double knots vs single knots). Just outside the carpet store was the arched entrance to the Grand Bazaar and its 4000+ shops featuring everything. We bought tea, and a few other goodies, to help the teetering Turkish economy.
Somewhere in there we stopped for a bite to eat...two Cokes and two chicken wrap sandwiches plus an order of fries for Jeff....total? 890 Turkish Lira which equaled about $48 USD! A pretty hefty lunch price for an outdoor bistro! It was a tasty lunch, but, really?
Overall I think we agree that we really like Turkey...it's different. It's clean. Yes, we like it.
Back onboard, tonight's movie is SKYFALL, but the real attraction is The Janene and Jeff Show...or the British Invasion production, which was excellent. And, as has become our very favorite part of the day, after a quick bite to eat after the show, we stop and relax to happy music by Alan and Alana. More often than not, we all share a bottle of nice wine...ending some beautiful days making new friendships stronger...
Quote for today? "The man who goes alone can start today; but he who travels with another must wait till that other is ready." ... Henry D. Thoreau, WALDEN, Chapter 1
In the morning we were given letters from Captain Kent, reiterating his message of the night before and Jeff and I went off with 38 other hearty souls to visit Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque with over three hours left for us to wander the 4000 shops in the Grand Bazaar...no guide needed or wanted for that part. And we probably managed to see about half of them...at least it felt like it.
First a word about the port...so unusual to be at the actual link of Asia and Europe. One side of the ship looks at one continent and the other side another place entirely.
Now we got lucky again with a wonderful guide who looked like Jim Valvano and with a similar personality...chatty, funny, and opinionated. While we were in the main pedestrian only boulevard leading to the Blue Mosque, a number of motorcycles zoomed by. Finally he stopped a couple of them and yelled at them in Turkish of course. I don't know exactly what he said but it wasn't too nice and I think he got his point across. They were interrupting his train of thought as well as disrupting guests in his country...I think that's the gist of what he said.
So, we got in line to receive a look over by the fashion police of Islam...then some of us got blue scarves to better cover our hair and elbows, others got whole robes to cover shoulders, elbows, arms, and knees. Then, we were told to take our shoes off and put them in plastic bags which were provided. We did not have to do the ritual washing of almost everything, but we were granted access to the mosque. What followed was an in depth discussion of Islam as well as a thorough explanation of the mosque's history and how it is used today when the call to prayer is sounded. Very interesting stuff...nothing scary or intimidating at all.
But it was a very warm day and having to wrap your head and cover your arms in an unknown rough fabric encouraged the perspiration to run down...well, pretty much everywhere. The Mosque has about 20,000 delicate blue Iznik tiles in 33 shades of blue, more than 216 stained glass windows and more than 50 different tulip designs.. After the tiles were made it is said that the color recipes were destroyed so tiles like those will never be made again...it also means that if some are stolen or fall off, too bad kids! And it is also said that one tile was recently sold and brought $240,000.
JMB fussed at the bare feet aroma lingering in the Mosque, but enjoyed photographing it. Several men came in to pray while we were there: they were early for the next call and seemed totally unbothered by the throngs of people and tour guides. We left, and put our shoes on as we clambered down the marble steps outside. Then we all walked across the plaza to Hagia Sophia, one of the greatest examples of Byzantine architecture rich with mosaics and marble pillars and coverings. St. Sophia is a World Heritage Site, so I can cross one more off my list.
Back on the bus, we rambled and rumbled to a carpet demonstration and learned the difference between Turkish carpets and Persian carpets. (double knots vs single knots). Just outside the carpet store was the arched entrance to the Grand Bazaar and its 4000+ shops featuring everything. We bought tea, and a few other goodies, to help the teetering Turkish economy.
Somewhere in there we stopped for a bite to eat...two Cokes and two chicken wrap sandwiches plus an order of fries for Jeff....total? 890 Turkish Lira which equaled about $48 USD! A pretty hefty lunch price for an outdoor bistro! It was a tasty lunch, but, really?
Overall I think we agree that we really like Turkey...it's different. It's clean. Yes, we like it.
Back onboard, tonight's movie is SKYFALL, but the real attraction is The Janene and Jeff Show...or the British Invasion production, which was excellent. And, as has become our very favorite part of the day, after a quick bite to eat after the show, we stop and relax to happy music by Alan and Alana. More often than not, we all share a bottle of nice wine...ending some beautiful days making new friendships stronger...
Quote for today? "The man who goes alone can start today; but he who travels with another must wait till that other is ready." ... Henry D. Thoreau, WALDEN, Chapter 1
Wednesday, June 26, 2013
SUNDAY, JUNE 23, 2013. MYTILENE, LESVOS ( in the Greek Islands)
Oh boy! This was a beauty, and gets a top vote from me! Absolutely gorgeous! On a sun drenched Sunday morning, just picture yourself wandering along a sleepy cobblestone lane peeking into flowery sweet scented courtyards with little tables already set for morning coffee. Oh my gosh...here I could live...Or visit on a regular basis! Me and 3 million olive trees, this island's major trade. (Add Jack in there too!) One little elderly lady stopped Jeff and offered him a piece of bread, but when she saw his camera she decided she would rather have her picture taken...so with a nod of her head she posed for him...a typical Greek grandmother clad in black!
We wandered further into an old stone olive oil manufacturing museum situated in the middle of this darling little mountain village. It was very interesting to hear how olive oil is actually pressed and be able to see all the hand machinery involved. But, more so, it was just a beautifully restored place, quiet, flowery, and serene.
Another stop was an old church in another adorable mountain village where the cobblestones went up, up, up and twist, twist, twist and turn ending in the church's courtyard. In the little lane were many private shops featuring wonderful pottery and wooden bowls and decorative items. I had to pass them by, very regretfully, because Jeff and I had sort of lost each other and he was the cash carrier. There were also some REAL outdoor wine and vine covered eateries so authentically Greek, you'd swear you were there! And we were! They looked more real than the very best movie set...I expected Zorba to wave to me any second! WOW is the best word. And, yes it was hot and we were exhausted by the end of the day, but it was wonderful. I've fallen in love again...with Greece. I didn't expect to, but it happened. Jack, we'll talk about where to celebrate our 50th!!
I took the tender back to the ship while Jeff continued on in Mytilene taking more photos and wandering to his heart's content. I need a long nap so I can dream about this day again...
The posted pictures are from the olive oil location...so lovely...
We wandered further into an old stone olive oil manufacturing museum situated in the middle of this darling little mountain village. It was very interesting to hear how olive oil is actually pressed and be able to see all the hand machinery involved. But, more so, it was just a beautifully restored place, quiet, flowery, and serene.
Another stop was an old church in another adorable mountain village where the cobblestones went up, up, up and twist, twist, twist and turn ending in the church's courtyard. In the little lane were many private shops featuring wonderful pottery and wooden bowls and decorative items. I had to pass them by, very regretfully, because Jeff and I had sort of lost each other and he was the cash carrier. There were also some REAL outdoor wine and vine covered eateries so authentically Greek, you'd swear you were there! And we were! They looked more real than the very best movie set...I expected Zorba to wave to me any second! WOW is the best word. And, yes it was hot and we were exhausted by the end of the day, but it was wonderful. I've fallen in love again...with Greece. I didn't expect to, but it happened. Jack, we'll talk about where to celebrate our 50th!!
I took the tender back to the ship while Jeff continued on in Mytilene taking more photos and wandering to his heart's content. I need a long nap so I can dream about this day again...
The posted pictures are from the olive oil location...so lovely...
PIRAEUS, GREECE. SATURDAY, JUNE 22, 2013. ( Our ATHENS stop!)
WOW! Just can't believe we're in Athens. A long time dream ever since I helped make a scale model of the Parthenon in sixth grade Miss Parrish's class. And I have the newspaper article to prove it! And a long time dream of Jeff's was to see the Theatre of Dionysus, and he did. We were both like little kids in a candy store...uh, we did that too, but it's another duty free story.
We were up really early again and our sleep deficit mounts. Out tour hit the jackpot. We had an outstanding guide and what a difference it makes. Kristie was so passionate about her country and it's history! It was infectious. We still had to climb the slippery marble steps with no railings, but the lovely breeze kept the temperature manageable for a change. Of course it became miserable once we got down into the Plaka ( the old city bazaar area). It's another holiday weekend here and although traffic was less than usual we were told, the crowds grew and by midday were pretty heavy. We had time on our own to shop and picked up just a few minor things, preferring to wait until tomorrow and the island touring of Lesvos.
In the evening, Jeff performed his hourlong solo show which was just beautiful and well-crafted to include a nicely balanced selection of Broadway show tunes. It was a very special evening! And after that, the crew had a unique Dancing With the Stars performance...the dancers who dance regularly with Jeff in the Princess shows danced with cooks, servers, stewards, and the like. There were ten and it was such fun and the top winners were one of the cute female dancers who danced with a cook's assistant. And after that....we killed another bottle of wine celebrating the day. Two fifteen is too late when you need to be up and alert at six!
So, Athens is past and I really liked the city even though it presented itself as one that needed a little polishing and fixing. I loved the bay and the way the many marinas hugged the city...and of course the lovely blue sea and skies! Oh, and the flowers too.
So,on we go...next stop? Tomorrow the Greek Isles...Lesvos, the third largest of the Greek Islands, and the port city of Mytilene...
Quote today: "Surely to have seen Athens gives a man what Swift calls Invisible Precedence over his fellows." ...Sir Edward Marsh
We were up really early again and our sleep deficit mounts. Out tour hit the jackpot. We had an outstanding guide and what a difference it makes. Kristie was so passionate about her country and it's history! It was infectious. We still had to climb the slippery marble steps with no railings, but the lovely breeze kept the temperature manageable for a change. Of course it became miserable once we got down into the Plaka ( the old city bazaar area). It's another holiday weekend here and although traffic was less than usual we were told, the crowds grew and by midday were pretty heavy. We had time on our own to shop and picked up just a few minor things, preferring to wait until tomorrow and the island touring of Lesvos.
In the evening, Jeff performed his hourlong solo show which was just beautiful and well-crafted to include a nicely balanced selection of Broadway show tunes. It was a very special evening! And after that, the crew had a unique Dancing With the Stars performance...the dancers who dance regularly with Jeff in the Princess shows danced with cooks, servers, stewards, and the like. There were ten and it was such fun and the top winners were one of the cute female dancers who danced with a cook's assistant. And after that....we killed another bottle of wine celebrating the day. Two fifteen is too late when you need to be up and alert at six!
So, Athens is past and I really liked the city even though it presented itself as one that needed a little polishing and fixing. I loved the bay and the way the many marinas hugged the city...and of course the lovely blue sea and skies! Oh, and the flowers too.
So,on we go...next stop? Tomorrow the Greek Isles...Lesvos, the third largest of the Greek Islands, and the port city of Mytilene...
Quote today: "Surely to have seen Athens gives a man what Swift calls Invisible Precedence over his fellows." ...Sir Edward Marsh
Friday, June 21, 2013
THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 2013. ASHDOD, ISRAEL
Good Morning or Boker tov!
Up at 6:00 AM, an uncharacteristic time for me to be moving, much less awake! And out the gangway at 7:00 to meet with Israeli Immigration officials. Sounds scary. Reality...a nuisance.
All passengers, going ashore or not are REQUIRED to meet and present passport and landing card, already signed by immigration officials. AND, we have to take our passport and card with us
when we go ashore later this morning for our Crew Tour. Nevertheless, it took about an hour of standing in a queue, the deed is done and J and I had a nice breakfast with a few surprises. We must have received some new food when we were in Egypt because FRESH peaches, apricots and cherries appeared this morning! And two nights ago we had a fresh persimmon!! It was yummy...a cross between a sweet tomato, apple and peach. We missed lobster last night due to laundry...ate at the buffet that was poor at best. Some nights are better than others, and although the choices might look good, the taste seldom matches. Often, by 8:00, most entrees are dried out or lukewarm. Still, I didn't have to cook, so no complaints from me...I can always find fruit or veggies, cooked or raw.
I wanted to mention the differences between the Suez and Panama Canals...the Suez looks like a canal dug by hand. It's very wide and there are no locks. It's pastoral with a few nice bridges to pass under and the largest swing bridge in the world...like the Figure Eight Island Bridge only much much larger. One side, East, I think, is primarily desert while the other side has small villages and green, irrigated farmland along the way with small docks and fishing boats here and there. From time to time there are lovely homes with large picture windows facing the canal with built in entertainment! Both sides have guarded highways along the water's edge. The Panama Canal has all the engineering details, the locks, donkeys, and standby folks along the way in case a lock problem develops. We met one older couple this morning at breakfast who chose this cruise solely because the ship goes through both canals on this itinerary.
So, in a little while J and I will go off to Jerusalem and other points with the crew. I told Brendy, my cabin steward, not to bother cleaning my room today. He'll be on the same crew tour, and he should have the day for fun too. There will be five buses to get into trouble! Hopefully we won't be on one of them. The other difference between a passenger excursion and a crew excursion is, well...the crew excursion is more like a high school field trip! All directions have to be repeated about ten times because some folks don't listen or don't understand because of language differences. Each bus is. Like a mini-UN. The difference in price this time was $200 vs $20. Our temperature today should hold right around 80' with clear skies. 'Nuff said.
So, more about the tour when we return!
Well, it was a fast tour of the Old City, the via Dolorosa, The Church of the Holy Sepulcher ,and the Western Wall (formerly known as the Wailing Wall), Followed by a fast, late lunch stop, followed by an allotted seven minutes of shopping! Our guide was on a really fast speed, something that seems to be a common trait among guides! We had about 20 minutes to work our way to the Wall and leave our prayer wishes in the wall cracks, and find our way back to the meeting place for Bus 35...except she forgot to tell us where to meet! Other guides had big numbered signs which they held up from time to time, but our young lady forgot hers. It was hit or miss from then on. Oh, we each had a headset with one earplug so we could hear her...talking to other people, saying which way to go...trouble was, she didn't tell us where she was! This made for a pretty stressful time. Managing a camera, a headset, cobblestone streets, and very crowded pushy people all headed in different directions, was hard.
In the end, though, and after Jeff and I talked about it, we agreed that although we wanted it to feel holy, it just didn't for various reasons. The crowds, the extreme photo taking, the heat and rushed pace, along with not being able to slowly absorb the crowds and the atmosphere without wondering where we were going and would we lose sight of her. We agreed that the bazaar along the via Dolorosa and that walk felt most like it was a long time ago. But I think it would be very helpful if these very special holy places put requirements in place to preserve the antiquity and atmosphere of these places. Perhaps limiting the numbers allowed in at a time, or specific times for groups, as is done in Rome, would help people more fully experience them. I have to say that the Ethiopian priests looked totally discouraged, maybe disgusted with the crowds and their lack of reflection and prayerful appreciation and humility.
Somehow we were all able to meet in the Church's courtyard and even picked up a few people who went missing much earlier. We found the bus and made a quick run to a nearby monastery for lunch...($9.00 salads)...we had drinks instead, then were granted a seven minute shopping spree on the way to the ship. Seven minutes isn't much time, but we managed to spend a few shekels.
We were rewarded by a most glorious sunset at the end of another very special outing! Tomorrow we have another sea day in preparation for Athens on Saturday, June 22.
PS Say a special prayer for Jeff as he has a telephone interview tonight for a teaching job. Thank you!
Up at 6:00 AM, an uncharacteristic time for me to be moving, much less awake! And out the gangway at 7:00 to meet with Israeli Immigration officials. Sounds scary. Reality...a nuisance.
All passengers, going ashore or not are REQUIRED to meet and present passport and landing card, already signed by immigration officials. AND, we have to take our passport and card with us
when we go ashore later this morning for our Crew Tour. Nevertheless, it took about an hour of standing in a queue, the deed is done and J and I had a nice breakfast with a few surprises. We must have received some new food when we were in Egypt because FRESH peaches, apricots and cherries appeared this morning! And two nights ago we had a fresh persimmon!! It was yummy...a cross between a sweet tomato, apple and peach. We missed lobster last night due to laundry...ate at the buffet that was poor at best. Some nights are better than others, and although the choices might look good, the taste seldom matches. Often, by 8:00, most entrees are dried out or lukewarm. Still, I didn't have to cook, so no complaints from me...I can always find fruit or veggies, cooked or raw.
I wanted to mention the differences between the Suez and Panama Canals...the Suez looks like a canal dug by hand. It's very wide and there are no locks. It's pastoral with a few nice bridges to pass under and the largest swing bridge in the world...like the Figure Eight Island Bridge only much much larger. One side, East, I think, is primarily desert while the other side has small villages and green, irrigated farmland along the way with small docks and fishing boats here and there. From time to time there are lovely homes with large picture windows facing the canal with built in entertainment! Both sides have guarded highways along the water's edge. The Panama Canal has all the engineering details, the locks, donkeys, and standby folks along the way in case a lock problem develops. We met one older couple this morning at breakfast who chose this cruise solely because the ship goes through both canals on this itinerary.
So, in a little while J and I will go off to Jerusalem and other points with the crew. I told Brendy, my cabin steward, not to bother cleaning my room today. He'll be on the same crew tour, and he should have the day for fun too. There will be five buses to get into trouble! Hopefully we won't be on one of them. The other difference between a passenger excursion and a crew excursion is, well...the crew excursion is more like a high school field trip! All directions have to be repeated about ten times because some folks don't listen or don't understand because of language differences. Each bus is. Like a mini-UN. The difference in price this time was $200 vs $20. Our temperature today should hold right around 80' with clear skies. 'Nuff said.
So, more about the tour when we return!
Well, it was a fast tour of the Old City, the via Dolorosa, The Church of the Holy Sepulcher ,and the Western Wall (formerly known as the Wailing Wall), Followed by a fast, late lunch stop, followed by an allotted seven minutes of shopping! Our guide was on a really fast speed, something that seems to be a common trait among guides! We had about 20 minutes to work our way to the Wall and leave our prayer wishes in the wall cracks, and find our way back to the meeting place for Bus 35...except she forgot to tell us where to meet! Other guides had big numbered signs which they held up from time to time, but our young lady forgot hers. It was hit or miss from then on. Oh, we each had a headset with one earplug so we could hear her...talking to other people, saying which way to go...trouble was, she didn't tell us where she was! This made for a pretty stressful time. Managing a camera, a headset, cobblestone streets, and very crowded pushy people all headed in different directions, was hard.
In the end, though, and after Jeff and I talked about it, we agreed that although we wanted it to feel holy, it just didn't for various reasons. The crowds, the extreme photo taking, the heat and rushed pace, along with not being able to slowly absorb the crowds and the atmosphere without wondering where we were going and would we lose sight of her. We agreed that the bazaar along the via Dolorosa and that walk felt most like it was a long time ago. But I think it would be very helpful if these very special holy places put requirements in place to preserve the antiquity and atmosphere of these places. Perhaps limiting the numbers allowed in at a time, or specific times for groups, as is done in Rome, would help people more fully experience them. I have to say that the Ethiopian priests looked totally discouraged, maybe disgusted with the crowds and their lack of reflection and prayerful appreciation and humility.
Somehow we were all able to meet in the Church's courtyard and even picked up a few people who went missing much earlier. We found the bus and made a quick run to a nearby monastery for lunch...($9.00 salads)...we had drinks instead, then were granted a seven minute shopping spree on the way to the ship. Seven minutes isn't much time, but we managed to spend a few shekels.
We were rewarded by a most glorious sunset at the end of another very special outing! Tomorrow we have another sea day in preparation for Athens on Saturday, June 22.
PS Say a special prayer for Jeff as he has a telephone interview tonight for a teaching job. Thank you!
Wednesday, June 19, 2013
TUESDAY, JUNE 18, 2013. AT SEA...
Early this morning we entered the Red Sea, headed for the Gulf of Suez...then north toward the Suez Canal during the rest of the day. Surprisingly nice weather...High 90's but low humidity and a nice breeze.
Pop Choir met at the same time that Jeff's Improv Class met, so I skipped the class and went for the choir. The rest of the day I had planned for laundry, however, it seems that all...well, this is what our newsletter said tonight:
"Due to water restrictions during the Suez Canal transit, laundry services, including self-service laundries are closed from today through 6:00 tomorrow night." So much for clean anything! I will do some undies in the sink, and hope that indeed, I can get into the laundry at six sharp tomorrow so I have something to wear to Jerusalem, everything is in my hamper!
Quote from the Princess Patter: "One's destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things."... Henry Miller
Pop Choir met at the same time that Jeff's Improv Class met, so I skipped the class and went for the choir. The rest of the day I had planned for laundry, however, it seems that all...well, this is what our newsletter said tonight:
"Due to water restrictions during the Suez Canal transit, laundry services, including self-service laundries are closed from today through 6:00 tomorrow night." So much for clean anything! I will do some undies in the sink, and hope that indeed, I can get into the laundry at six sharp tomorrow so I have something to wear to Jerusalem, everything is in my hamper!
Quote from the Princess Patter: "One's destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things."... Henry Miller
MONDAY, JUNE 17, 2013. AQABA, JORDAN
Aqaba is a resort area on the Gulf of Aqaba and the area generally was made popular by riders thundering out of the desert to capture a Turkish port in LAWRENCE OF ARABIA. When the port was actually captured by Colonel Lawrence in 1917 it marked the end of the Turkish empire in Arabia, at least I think that's how it went.
As far as we on the Sea Princess were concerned, Aqaba marked the long awaited trip to The Lost City of Petra, about two hours north, or to put it another way...another long bus ride starting earlier in the morning than we like. A couple of differences on this tour. We're going second class, meaning we signed on for a Crew Tour. What's the difference? About $200 and a meal. So, about 80 crew folks met in the crew bar, picked one thing from each bin...one apple, one banana, one cheese sandwich, one ham sandwich, one large bottle of water and one slice of pound cake...stuffed it all into one plastic bag...and we were ready to go. Cost? $50. Per person.
Here are the specific directions to Petra from Aqaba: take the main highway north out of Aqaba. Drive for exactly one hour and turn left at the lonely goatherd and his flock. Drive up, up, up through the hills past the Bedouins. Stop for toilets at the only building that looks like it might have one...yeah...the one on the scary edge of the canyon! Drive one half hour more and follow the signs down, down, down to the town of Petra.
THEN... Discharge all passengers and race them down, down, down, through the very narrow slot canyons for about three hours in the heat of the day. Scare the hell out of them by having horses, donkeys, camels and horse carts racing with them or heading up the other way at the same time! Once we made it down to the area where the actual town was in ancient times, we were allowed 30 minutes to explore further...that is everyone but me. The guide told me I had only ten minutes because I would need more than an hour to walk back to the entry and another 15 minutes to walk to where the buses were parked! I elected to take a few pictures, sent Jeff on to explore to his hearts content, and then I headed right up again, using the same exquisite philosophy that worked for me early in the cruise at the orchid botanical gardens on one of the islands....that is, slow and steady with prayer and water and benches will get you there eventually, Toots.
Petra was featured in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade movie. The rock walls are between 500 and more than 600 feet tall. This fascinating city was rediscovered in 1812. It is hot, being on the desert floor. Unfortunately the pathway is very rustic with some large smoother rocks and gravel, making for slow, careful walking to avoid trips and falls. As a result most of what I saw was my feet! If and when I stopped to take a photo, I risked being knocked over by other people or animals. The trip back and up was awful because it was so hot and after the first few miles my legs were screaming and I must have looked pretty ragged because every now and then someone from a passenger tour would stop me and ask, "Are you OK?", or "Do you need help?" And every donkey/camel/horse/cart driver headed down the path would ask if I needed help going up! Several angel people offered water(I had my own), an umbrella to make shade (I accepted), a cold wet rag for my neck (I accepted), and company, which I accepted from time to time. The distance between rest stops shortened dramatically as the walk up became steeper and rougher terrain. Even though I was determined to make it on my own, the time was limited and I was really afraid I wouldn't be able to make it...but I did. Jeff caught up with me and encouraged me enough so I was able to finish! Even more amazing, I was NOT the last person on the bus.
I guess I can sum up this trip by saying, I'm glad I was able to do it once, but I would not encourage any older person to attempt it unless they do a lot of regular aerobic activity and have really good knees and feet! And, I wouldn't do it again with a tour. Independently, perhaps. In cool weather, perhaps. In all likelihood, no, once was enough. In the end I tweaked something in my weakest knee that is making life a little more painful and trickier now and threatening my Jerusalem walking tomorrow (June 20).
Jeff was able to do photography for both of us and as we reviewed his pictures last night, he did get some beautiful, artistic shots. When we stopped at the toilet stop, we were very surprised at what a clean, nice place the little shop was. And at my encouragement J bought himself a ...well, check out the pictures. And understand that this place was miles out in the desolate high hills...like 3000 feet up in the Bedouin country, and there weren't even that many of them around....maybe one tent every five miles or so.
I was SO happy to be back on the nice, cool bus headed for the ship. J gave me one earphone and we listened to Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat, which seemed somehow appropriate, all the way back to Aqaba.
Quote for today: "What lies behind us, and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us."... Ralph Waldo Emerson
As far as we on the Sea Princess were concerned, Aqaba marked the long awaited trip to The Lost City of Petra, about two hours north, or to put it another way...another long bus ride starting earlier in the morning than we like. A couple of differences on this tour. We're going second class, meaning we signed on for a Crew Tour. What's the difference? About $200 and a meal. So, about 80 crew folks met in the crew bar, picked one thing from each bin...one apple, one banana, one cheese sandwich, one ham sandwich, one large bottle of water and one slice of pound cake...stuffed it all into one plastic bag...and we were ready to go. Cost? $50. Per person.
Here are the specific directions to Petra from Aqaba: take the main highway north out of Aqaba. Drive for exactly one hour and turn left at the lonely goatherd and his flock. Drive up, up, up through the hills past the Bedouins. Stop for toilets at the only building that looks like it might have one...yeah...the one on the scary edge of the canyon! Drive one half hour more and follow the signs down, down, down to the town of Petra.
THEN... Discharge all passengers and race them down, down, down, through the very narrow slot canyons for about three hours in the heat of the day. Scare the hell out of them by having horses, donkeys, camels and horse carts racing with them or heading up the other way at the same time! Once we made it down to the area where the actual town was in ancient times, we were allowed 30 minutes to explore further...that is everyone but me. The guide told me I had only ten minutes because I would need more than an hour to walk back to the entry and another 15 minutes to walk to where the buses were parked! I elected to take a few pictures, sent Jeff on to explore to his hearts content, and then I headed right up again, using the same exquisite philosophy that worked for me early in the cruise at the orchid botanical gardens on one of the islands....that is, slow and steady with prayer and water and benches will get you there eventually, Toots.
Petra was featured in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade movie. The rock walls are between 500 and more than 600 feet tall. This fascinating city was rediscovered in 1812. It is hot, being on the desert floor. Unfortunately the pathway is very rustic with some large smoother rocks and gravel, making for slow, careful walking to avoid trips and falls. As a result most of what I saw was my feet! If and when I stopped to take a photo, I risked being knocked over by other people or animals. The trip back and up was awful because it was so hot and after the first few miles my legs were screaming and I must have looked pretty ragged because every now and then someone from a passenger tour would stop me and ask, "Are you OK?", or "Do you need help?" And every donkey/camel/horse/cart driver headed down the path would ask if I needed help going up! Several angel people offered water(I had my own), an umbrella to make shade (I accepted), a cold wet rag for my neck (I accepted), and company, which I accepted from time to time. The distance between rest stops shortened dramatically as the walk up became steeper and rougher terrain. Even though I was determined to make it on my own, the time was limited and I was really afraid I wouldn't be able to make it...but I did. Jeff caught up with me and encouraged me enough so I was able to finish! Even more amazing, I was NOT the last person on the bus.
I guess I can sum up this trip by saying, I'm glad I was able to do it once, but I would not encourage any older person to attempt it unless they do a lot of regular aerobic activity and have really good knees and feet! And, I wouldn't do it again with a tour. Independently, perhaps. In cool weather, perhaps. In all likelihood, no, once was enough. In the end I tweaked something in my weakest knee that is making life a little more painful and trickier now and threatening my Jerusalem walking tomorrow (June 20).
Jeff was able to do photography for both of us and as we reviewed his pictures last night, he did get some beautiful, artistic shots. When we stopped at the toilet stop, we were very surprised at what a clean, nice place the little shop was. And at my encouragement J bought himself a ...well, check out the pictures. And understand that this place was miles out in the desolate high hills...like 3000 feet up in the Bedouin country, and there weren't even that many of them around....maybe one tent every five miles or so.
I was SO happy to be back on the nice, cool bus headed for the ship. J gave me one earphone and we listened to Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat, which seemed somehow appropriate, all the way back to Aqaba.
Quote for today: "What lies behind us, and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us."... Ralph Waldo Emerson
SUNDAY, JUNE 16, 2013. SAFAGA, EGYPT
OK. We were up at 4:45 AM to be sure to get our acts together, meet for breakfast and catch our groups for the 3 1/2 hour bus ride to the Valley of the Kings. Now, Jeff gets his tour paid for when he acts as an escort for the tour and that includes early morning crowd control in the theatre where all the tour goers congregate according to their tour times and numbers. So, although our specific tour wasn't leaving until 6:45, he needed to report to the theatre by 6:00. We met for breakfast at 5:30.
JMB was at the theatre on time and ready for whatever. It seems that this particular morning whatever took the form of two elderly gents getting into a fistfight because one of them coughed. This is true. Jeff got between them and said, in his sternest escort voice, "Really?" And he moved them to different seats apart from one another and thanked the Egyptian gods that they were scheduled for different tours. That was the start of our day with testy, argumentative passengers.
Originally we had asked to be put on the felucca trip on the Nile, but we don't have a choice, really...they put us where they need Jeff to be. But everyone on this day had to suffer through the 3 1/2 hour plus bus ride (each way). Safaga is just a very small port town and the Valley of the Kings, must be at least 200-250 miles away. So we headed out away from our ship eagerly looking ahead of the convoy for sight of our so called police escort. We were bus 7 of about 17...660 passengers made this tour. It became apparent quickly that our bus driver would rather be bus 1, not 7. Our guide was a charming fast-talker named Rehab. Can you see where I'm going with this? The stars, to say nothing of the buses, were NOT aligning. The road was an unmarked generous two-lane highway. We passed in no particular order...most of the other buses and were poised to pass the last one and take the commanding lead when our driver failed to notice, although well marked and anticipated, the upcoming set of speedbumps. They are at regular intervals, but for no clear reason, every five or ten miles. There had also been some shoulder work prep being done and the gents who dropped large piles of sand missed the shoulder and dumped these loads partially on the roadway. And here we come barreling down the highway having passed every vehicle thus far...we hit the speedbumps at perhaps 60 or 70 miles per hour, the bus reared up in the front, then fell down with a crash trying to fly over the mini sand dune! There was a loud THUNK, a fast application of the brakes and we were at a dead stop. There followed a very loud exchange in Arabic between our guide and the driver. And then both exited the vehicle to survey the damage. And their exit was soon followed by the exit of certain old gent passengers who were compelled to take photos and offer assistance and when denied, proceeded to wander off across the road, presumably for a smoke or more discussions. What followed was Jeff declaring, "With the power invested in me as an escort I will do my duty to God and country and bring these wayfarers back to the ship!" And away he went, too. He knew for sure that soon he would be looking at everyone with a Bus 7 sticker wandering about the Egyptian countryside! And sure enough, he did his duty and rounded up all the miscreants and ushered them back onboard. Along with him came two other new faces, though we know not from whence or where they came...another driver/guide person and a young man who seemed to be either a hitchhiker or a guide. There was more loud Arabic discussion after which Rehab announced that we would continue on this bus, and, since the motor was in the back it was not damaged, but at some point in the day the replacement bus would appear...she insisted it was just seconds behind us. She said, "When we have this many buses we always have an extra bus with us"! Jeff said our bus looked like Mark's teeth after his football accident (that would be sticking out at a right angle.) So, it was an ugly looking bumper. And, we were now about 15 minutes behind ALL the other buses. And just another note...there was a restroom on this bus, no rest stops were needed so we could proceed full speed ahead!
We continued. After Rehab assessed the bored looking passengers staring at the very sandy, dead barren landscape, she decided to play HSN on the bus and sell her wares. We were offered the wonderful opportunity to purchase custom made cartouches ...gold, silver, or gold and silver...which she showed pictures of with listed prices. And tee shirts monogrammed with your own custom embroidered cartouches. And, she promised, they would be delivered within a few hours when we stopped at our five star hotel for lunch. I KNOW! Hard to believe. But Jeff and I bit. I ordered two necklaces and two tee shirts...Jeff ordered himself a golf shirt. We didn't have to pay anything until the goods were delivered, AND she would take credit cards!!!
We continued. Our driver continued to pass vehicles and the drivers and guides/hitchhiker carried on lively discussions as we passed more dusty nothing. Finally, after hours and hours we could see some greenish scrubby bushes and the land became more interesting with a few houses along the way, electric wires here and there and off in the distance we could see greener areas. And, finally what our elementary school geography books told us was true: the population of Egypt is clearly clustered along the sea and the Nile River! It's true! The landscape changed to one of pastoral marked areas of farmland with various irrigation ditches and verdant green things growing. We saw many canals and finally the huge Nile River. Within half an hour we were in Luxor, a bustling city once called Thebes, where a skinny smallish Coke is $4.00..."Why?" asked Jeff. "Because it's Luxor", he was told.
Our ticket into the Valley of the Kings allowed us to visit 3 of the 62 tombs. So we were advised to see Ramses III, Ramses IV and Ramses IX. (And we stopped and took a peek into King Tut's...which was hastily constructed with very little ornamentation and finesse...but costs an additional hefty fee to visit...our ship expert advised to skip it, so we did.) It was very, very hot and very slow going because so many people were in the area, but it was fascinating and totally amazing that after so many thousands of years the hieroglyphics were so colorful and clear. And, that the chambers were so tall and spacious inside. I expected to be in very confined areas, but not so. The brightly decorated ceilings were at least 12-13 ft tall and many of the rooms were very large, larger than our main living areas. The stories and pictures are so interesting, but the cost in human lives to make these places must have been enormous and it is so apparent that many more places are still to be discovered. There were many digs we noticed along the way.
Our group was transported to lunch at a large hotel in Luxor where we also paid for and picked up our bus purchases...what a cool way to shop!
We stopped briefly at the Colossi of Memnon where an aggressive sales guy attached himself to Jeff. It's so hard to be nice, but effective in warding these people off. They don't get the fact that you are more likely to stop, look, and buy, if you are left alone. YIKES!
Our last stop was the Temple at Luxor which is almost as exquisite as the tombs. But by this time my knees and legs had had their limit, so I took a slower approach and paid the price...I missed all the guide explanations. I'll need to do some reading when I get home to better understand what I saw. It was around three o'clock and the heat of the day finished me off. I found an old Pharaoh to keep me company and sat by his feet for a while in the shade of a huge temple column and had a good bit of wondering time before it was time to head back to the bus. Meanwhile Jeff was able to photograph every nook and cranny of this immense temple stuck right in the middle of Luxor surrounded by modern shops and traffic and hotels. Quite amazing! He took many many wonderful pics...I took a few. Good thing we are combining them when all is said and done!
After another four hours, we bid Rehab "mesa el kheir" (Good Evening) and we arrived back at our mother ship, exhausted and weary, dusty and sweaty...and we were hungry puppies! But we conquered Egypt, had adventures, and souvenirs to boot! Our bus number 7 was famous for its misstep and everyone was buzzing about that!
When I got in the elevator to head up to my room a man really wanted to get on it as the door was closing and he kicked the door to get it to open, as I was hitting the "open" button. Then as the elevator filled, people weren't listening to allow one lady space to get off. She got angry, the men got angry when she yelled at them and for a minute it felt like the day would end like it began. Finally, I said in my sweetest USA voice, "Really? Can't we just be nice to each other...everyone is tired...but we can still be nice." Everyone was quiet for the rest of our elevator ride...no comments at all, sweet music to my ears.
Tomorrow...The Lost City of Petra, Jordan.
JMB was at the theatre on time and ready for whatever. It seems that this particular morning whatever took the form of two elderly gents getting into a fistfight because one of them coughed. This is true. Jeff got between them and said, in his sternest escort voice, "Really?" And he moved them to different seats apart from one another and thanked the Egyptian gods that they were scheduled for different tours. That was the start of our day with testy, argumentative passengers.
Originally we had asked to be put on the felucca trip on the Nile, but we don't have a choice, really...they put us where they need Jeff to be. But everyone on this day had to suffer through the 3 1/2 hour plus bus ride (each way). Safaga is just a very small port town and the Valley of the Kings, must be at least 200-250 miles away. So we headed out away from our ship eagerly looking ahead of the convoy for sight of our so called police escort. We were bus 7 of about 17...660 passengers made this tour. It became apparent quickly that our bus driver would rather be bus 1, not 7. Our guide was a charming fast-talker named Rehab. Can you see where I'm going with this? The stars, to say nothing of the buses, were NOT aligning. The road was an unmarked generous two-lane highway. We passed in no particular order...most of the other buses and were poised to pass the last one and take the commanding lead when our driver failed to notice, although well marked and anticipated, the upcoming set of speedbumps. They are at regular intervals, but for no clear reason, every five or ten miles. There had also been some shoulder work prep being done and the gents who dropped large piles of sand missed the shoulder and dumped these loads partially on the roadway. And here we come barreling down the highway having passed every vehicle thus far...we hit the speedbumps at perhaps 60 or 70 miles per hour, the bus reared up in the front, then fell down with a crash trying to fly over the mini sand dune! There was a loud THUNK, a fast application of the brakes and we were at a dead stop. There followed a very loud exchange in Arabic between our guide and the driver. And then both exited the vehicle to survey the damage. And their exit was soon followed by the exit of certain old gent passengers who were compelled to take photos and offer assistance and when denied, proceeded to wander off across the road, presumably for a smoke or more discussions. What followed was Jeff declaring, "With the power invested in me as an escort I will do my duty to God and country and bring these wayfarers back to the ship!" And away he went, too. He knew for sure that soon he would be looking at everyone with a Bus 7 sticker wandering about the Egyptian countryside! And sure enough, he did his duty and rounded up all the miscreants and ushered them back onboard. Along with him came two other new faces, though we know not from whence or where they came...another driver/guide person and a young man who seemed to be either a hitchhiker or a guide. There was more loud Arabic discussion after which Rehab announced that we would continue on this bus, and, since the motor was in the back it was not damaged, but at some point in the day the replacement bus would appear...she insisted it was just seconds behind us. She said, "When we have this many buses we always have an extra bus with us"! Jeff said our bus looked like Mark's teeth after his football accident (that would be sticking out at a right angle.) So, it was an ugly looking bumper. And, we were now about 15 minutes behind ALL the other buses. And just another note...there was a restroom on this bus, no rest stops were needed so we could proceed full speed ahead!
We continued. After Rehab assessed the bored looking passengers staring at the very sandy, dead barren landscape, she decided to play HSN on the bus and sell her wares. We were offered the wonderful opportunity to purchase custom made cartouches ...gold, silver, or gold and silver...which she showed pictures of with listed prices. And tee shirts monogrammed with your own custom embroidered cartouches. And, she promised, they would be delivered within a few hours when we stopped at our five star hotel for lunch. I KNOW! Hard to believe. But Jeff and I bit. I ordered two necklaces and two tee shirts...Jeff ordered himself a golf shirt. We didn't have to pay anything until the goods were delivered, AND she would take credit cards!!!
We continued. Our driver continued to pass vehicles and the drivers and guides/hitchhiker carried on lively discussions as we passed more dusty nothing. Finally, after hours and hours we could see some greenish scrubby bushes and the land became more interesting with a few houses along the way, electric wires here and there and off in the distance we could see greener areas. And, finally what our elementary school geography books told us was true: the population of Egypt is clearly clustered along the sea and the Nile River! It's true! The landscape changed to one of pastoral marked areas of farmland with various irrigation ditches and verdant green things growing. We saw many canals and finally the huge Nile River. Within half an hour we were in Luxor, a bustling city once called Thebes, where a skinny smallish Coke is $4.00..."Why?" asked Jeff. "Because it's Luxor", he was told.
Our ticket into the Valley of the Kings allowed us to visit 3 of the 62 tombs. So we were advised to see Ramses III, Ramses IV and Ramses IX. (And we stopped and took a peek into King Tut's...which was hastily constructed with very little ornamentation and finesse...but costs an additional hefty fee to visit...our ship expert advised to skip it, so we did.) It was very, very hot and very slow going because so many people were in the area, but it was fascinating and totally amazing that after so many thousands of years the hieroglyphics were so colorful and clear. And, that the chambers were so tall and spacious inside. I expected to be in very confined areas, but not so. The brightly decorated ceilings were at least 12-13 ft tall and many of the rooms were very large, larger than our main living areas. The stories and pictures are so interesting, but the cost in human lives to make these places must have been enormous and it is so apparent that many more places are still to be discovered. There were many digs we noticed along the way.
Our group was transported to lunch at a large hotel in Luxor where we also paid for and picked up our bus purchases...what a cool way to shop!
We stopped briefly at the Colossi of Memnon where an aggressive sales guy attached himself to Jeff. It's so hard to be nice, but effective in warding these people off. They don't get the fact that you are more likely to stop, look, and buy, if you are left alone. YIKES!
Our last stop was the Temple at Luxor which is almost as exquisite as the tombs. But by this time my knees and legs had had their limit, so I took a slower approach and paid the price...I missed all the guide explanations. I'll need to do some reading when I get home to better understand what I saw. It was around three o'clock and the heat of the day finished me off. I found an old Pharaoh to keep me company and sat by his feet for a while in the shade of a huge temple column and had a good bit of wondering time before it was time to head back to the bus. Meanwhile Jeff was able to photograph every nook and cranny of this immense temple stuck right in the middle of Luxor surrounded by modern shops and traffic and hotels. Quite amazing! He took many many wonderful pics...I took a few. Good thing we are combining them when all is said and done!
After another four hours, we bid Rehab "mesa el kheir" (Good Evening) and we arrived back at our mother ship, exhausted and weary, dusty and sweaty...and we were hungry puppies! But we conquered Egypt, had adventures, and souvenirs to boot! Our bus number 7 was famous for its misstep and everyone was buzzing about that!
When I got in the elevator to head up to my room a man really wanted to get on it as the door was closing and he kicked the door to get it to open, as I was hitting the "open" button. Then as the elevator filled, people weren't listening to allow one lady space to get off. She got angry, the men got angry when she yelled at them and for a minute it felt like the day would end like it began. Finally, I said in my sweetest USA voice, "Really? Can't we just be nice to each other...everyone is tired...but we can still be nice." Everyone was quiet for the rest of our elevator ride...no comments at all, sweet music to my ears.
Tomorrow...The Lost City of Petra, Jordan.
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