MONDAY, JULY 1, 2013. TO ASSISI BY HOOK OR BY CROOK...OR BY TRAIN!

JM pre purchased our train tickets in Rome at the local Saint Peter's train station, very close to our hotel and I contacted our Assisi hotel to let them know that we would be arriving late because we had two tours booked...one Saint Peter's and the Sistine Chapel, and the other was independent tickets to the Vatican Museums. We headed out early Monday morning, met our group across the street from the walls of the Vatican, and worked our way to the entrance to the Vatican Museums. There were hundreds and hundreds of people in lines that went all the way to Saint Peter's Square...a very long distance. Our heads were spinning knowing that we would be in those lines after lunch with our other tour tickets. It was a very hot morning already, at 8:00 and the thought wasn't a good one. We talked and decided to reserve judgement until after tour number one.

Finally we were in, having bypassed almost all the people waiting in line, although we still had to clear security, ticket purchase by our guide, and a bathroom stop for all. If I had one bit of advice, and I think Daniel told me the same thing, "If you go to the Vatican, book a tour to skip the awful lines!" And we started...up, up, up, a big bunch of stairs! Almost as many as up to the Acropolis!

All the galleries were filled with tour groups and were very crowded and this was early on a Monday morning. We were told to keep moving along and through each gallery and we had headsets to hear our guide. I'm sure that with so many guides, the noise level really could get high with all of them trying to make themselves heard, but those cheesy little earphones kept falling out of my ears. JM, fortunately was looking out for me with a set of much better ones that hook over the ears...those worked so much better.

When all was said and done, we saw all the things we wanted to see in the three or four hours and decided to forfeit our independent non-transferable tickets for the afternoon in favor of an earlier getaway to Assisi. Sad but true.

So, we ate our packed focaccia sandwiches at the colonnade in Saint Peter's and said good- bye to Rome. We retrieved our luggage, dragged it a block to the taxi stand, and took it on faith that we'd be able to use our late tickets for an earlier train. We did. With all those angels and saints watching over us, we dragged our heavy stuff about a mile in the heat of the day to the train...JM had to bail me out when I just couldn't manage mine anymore and started looking for a heart specialist or defibrillator instead of the Assisi train. It was a most awful time and the worst part was that JM was upset...with me, 'cause I just couldn't do it. I did my best...

Fortunately he booked us first class...the sweetie knows how to treat Mom...which was air conditioned and not too crowded and once our breathing and colors returned to normal, we knew we'd be OK.

As we got off the train in Assisi, we realized that to get to the station, and the necessary taxi, we had to take our luggage, down about 15 steps, walk a bit, then take them up about 15 steps...to go under the tracks and up again. So, although I tried, I couldn't do it, I took the lightest bags and bless his heart, JM sweated the rest of them down, over and up. We vowed to throw stuff out and send more home if we had to, to get them manageable.

So, once in our room, I turned him loose and told him to go explore while I got myself a little rest and water. When he returned about an hour later, he was all huge smiles and said, "Mom, this is the most beautiful place I've ever seen!" My heart skipped and I knew we were OK again. But I also knew I would have to dump stuff and better help carry our load.

Our hotel is in the middle of the town, up high on the hill...surrounded by ancient trees, churches, chapels and serenaded by birds every minute. The little shops are darling and every one is different. Artists, calligraphers, booksellers, ceramic artists, and musicians, share this art minded town, giving it a very unique, serene atmosphere. We have about a ten minute walk downhill to the Basilica of St Francis and about ten minutes uphill the other way are piazzas and parks and more restaurants and shops.

Our hotel is being called home by a Rick Steve's tour of Italy. These folks are from USA and are finishing a 13 day Italy tour. They will be here tomorrow and then leave for Rome to finish. So, we figure, if it's good enough for Rick Steves, it's probably good enough for us. In fact, it is an adorable, flower and art-filled place. Perhaps it was a large home or retreat in its former life, but it is just a beautiful small boutique hotel in this one! Plus the staff is very welcoming and friendly and helpful, too. There is a lovely patio area surrounded by viney things and fragrant flowers and we had dinner that night after exploring our new neighborhood. Our meal and wine was very nicely prepared and delicious. Dessert? Hah! Gelato!

In the end, our rough day turned beautiful and it must be all those angels and saints again. I think they have followed us. What a precious time to pause and reflect and rest. Peace and good. All will be well.